Tien Shan: group 1 trailblazers

The first of four expedition groups has finished, with the team arriving back at Bishkek on Saturday late afternoon. Together with Bek and Beka, the local NABU guides, Guma (cook) and Volodya the citizen scientists Christa & Manfred, Simone & Uwe, Christiana, Lothar and Stefan (Germany), David, Kurt, Tessa and David (UK), Michele (US) and Guillaume (France) spent another wonderful week in the mountains full of research work, adventure and fun.

Right now the valley meadows are carpeted in flowers of all colours, everything is lush and green and moist. Most days are sunny and warm, streams of snowmelt feed the Karakol river and soon the sun will have cleared the Karakol pass road from snow. In the first week, our camp stood solitairy in the vast valley but it seems that on 1 July the summer pasture season started and the herders, one after the other, set up their yurts.  Herds of sheep, goat, horses and cattle came into the valley, our neighbour Kanat moved in a couple of days ago and invited Volodya, Guma and myself for a welcome visit.

On our surveys we’ve been concentrating on snow leopard hotspots – locations where their presence has been proved in the past. Large snowfields still cover the upper parts of the side valleys, none of the former camera trap locations is yet accessible. Nonetheless, we set up four camera traps, two each in Kashka Tor and Isyk Ata as high up as possible. We went out in three or four smaller teams each day, recorded snow leopard prey species and other interesting mammals, birds and petroglyphs. Every evening during the daily review, Volodya assessed dozens of pictures, mostly of scat and footprints, and marked all findings in the overview map before taking over the completed datasheets. Our study area is divided into 2 x 2 km cells for statistical reasons, a scientific methodology that is used widely.

Here is a brief summary what we achieved over eight survey days:

  • We covered 36 cells, 11 of them three times, 15 twice and 10 once
  • We identified 34 bird species, four of them new additions to the bird inventory we have created over the years
  • There were 41 recordings of marmot, 6 sightings and 17 indirect ibex signs (scat, track), 4 recordings of snow cock, one of wolf and one of hare
  • We recorded 23 petroglyphs showing the historical significance of the area
  • We recorded 5 species of butterfly

We collected data on all but one day. That day we saw bad weather approaching from downvalley – thick and grey and unfriendly. We went out all the same and were rewarded for our folly with heavy rain and snowfall. Volodya’s team made it back to camp around 10:00 before they were hit (well done, Volodya!), team 2 & 3 returned shortly after, dripping wet from a very cold rain & snow shower. The kitchen yurt offered shelter, hot tea and a shot of vodka to warm up the body system while wet clothes, boots and rucksacks were spread around the stove in the drying yurt, which soon became a steaming sauna. When the rain stopped later on, the involuntary day at camp had become a full-blown party including dancing, singing and a hilarious yoga lesson led by Stephan later on.

Only team four (Christiana, Michele, Lothar and Bek) were still out on their mission in Pitiy valley, on the Eastern side of Karakol pass – or so we thought. No sign of them until 17:30 when, in accordance with our safety procedures, a search party went off to look for them. On the way up to the pass, we received a radio call from Christiana and returned to camp. And there they were telling about the adventures of getting wet during a river crossing, heavy snowfall and vain attempts to drive the car back up and over a pass on snow covered ground. Driving all the way around the mountain range was the only option to get back to camp, and that’s what they did: a full 6 hour drive! The team’s reunion was worth a celebration that lasted until late at night…

Thank you, team one for being the trailblazers and reccee team on this year’s Tien Shan expedition. Many thanks for your support, time, sweat and exceptional team spirit that made the last two weeks a unique experience. I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did. Safe travels to wherever you are heading. I hope to see you again some time.

Team 2: I am looking forward to meeting you on Monday morning at the Futuro Hotel.

Sweden: Picture and video addendum

Here are some pictures and videos of the expedition. Thanks again everyone!

Germany: Getting ready

The drive from Sweden to Germany via the Göteborg – Kiel ferry was good. Although the expeditions are different (bears in Sweden), the equipment is similar. GPSs, scat collection kits, etc.

Leaving Sweden

All this is now at our base of Gut Sunder (Sunder estate) and pretty much set up. Now our preparation list is down to some shopping, as well as setting survey areas for our citizen scientists to cover.

Today is a pleasant sunny and warm day (23C). So get ready and safe travels team 1. We look forward to meeting you at Bremen airport.

Sweden: No half measures

The inaugural Sweden bear expedition finished on a high.

Half of us paddled over to an island to map another bear den; the other half looked for and found more bear scats. We all met on a local mountaintop beauty spot for lunch and a cake to round things off in the field.

Back at base, we went through all the datasheets with Andrea to make sure the data we have gathered are exactly how she needs them. And talking about data, here are some basic stats of the expedition. Over the week of the expedition, we

  • visited 28 bear den sites and mapped 24
  • found 10 scats at 15 bear cluster sites
  • recovered a bear skeleton from a bog for further analysis
  • recovered a valuable transmitter
  • covered over 2,000 km of the study site
  • had two bear encounters and several with moose, capercailie and other interesting wildlife
  • increased Andrea’s den database by between a third and a half (depending on how the rest of the year goes)
  • in one short week gathered scats worth six weeks

Andrea called our contribution “invaluable” and we can all be justifyably proud of perhaps having doubled her den database by the end of the year and collected scats galore for her. This is what citizen science should be like!

No wonder then that our last dinner together was joyous. Gifts were exchanged, kind words spoken and as the sun bathed our expedition base in golden sunlight, we played a Scandinavian lawn game with Andrea making up the rules as we merrily went along.

Thank you to the team, thank you to Andrea for letting us get a glimpse of her life as a bear scientist, thank you to Elfie for keeping us fed so well, and thank you to the bears and the Swedish wilderness for letting us roam in their space.

Andrea has asked us to return and we shall be back.

 

 

Germany: Opener

Welcome to the blog for the German wolf expedition 2019. My name is Matthias Hammer and I will be your expedition leader for this expedition. With us also will be Peter Schuette, our expedition scientist, and we both look forward to meeting you soon.

Peter Schuette (right) and Matthias Hammer (left). The person in the middle is previous expedition leader Malika Fettak who is in the Tien Shan at the moment.

I am on the Sweden bear expedition at the moment. It finishes tomorrow and I will then pack up and drive straight to Lower Saxony to set up the Germany expedition with Peter there.

You may be aware that there has been a heatwave in Europe with temperatures of up to 40C in Germany. It is meant to last for a few days longer only, but then the drop in temperature is forecast to be only 10C too, so expect a balmy 30C something. More on the weather and other conditions on the ground when I get there on Wednesday.

I hope your preparations are going well and you have all read the dossier, swotted up by reading the 2018 report and familiarised yourself with the scientific and cultural background.

I’ll be in touch again once I have made it to the expedition base. Safe travels and see you Sunday next week, group 1.

Tien Shan: Wilderness and Kozhomkul the Strong

I can write today, because we are at Suusamyr for our day off. We’re attending festivities celebrating the 130th birthday of Kozhomkul the Strong. Legend says that he crossed the mountains a long time ago in winter and when his horse couldn’t get any further because of the deep snow, he took it on his back and carried it over the mountains.

In the real world, work is going well in the mountains. On our surveys we have spotted ibex, marmot, golden eagle, found wolf, fox and other scats. Every day we saw sunshine interrupted by the odd rain or haze shower. The clear nights are cold, but the starry sky totally makes up for it. Karakol pass is still blocked by snow.

This morning all the peaks surrounding base camp had a fresh layer of snow on them. Because of this, only a few herders have moved into “our” valley – we have it to ourselves and the wilderness that surrounds us.

More from us when group 1 returns next week. Only a few pictures for now…

Sweden: Summer, moose, bear, beauty

Much has happened over the past three days.

We have mapped countless dens, scoured the woods for bear sign, and covered hundreds of kilometres in three or four groups to do so.

We have become proficient data collectors for Andrea who is pleased with our progress. As a reward, we met at a local beauty spot for a picknick yesterday after a day’s work.  And how beautiful it was – swirling waters, rapids, sunlight trickling through the trees and blueberry pancakes.

We have walked through beautiful flower meadows in the sunshine, across bogs in the drizzle, negotiated our way through pathless forests, treading across thick carpets of moss, lichen and blueberries, perhaps where no human foot has been for centuries – at least this is what it often feels like.

We have seen vast expanses of forests, dusty logging roads, beautiful, hidden lakes and picture-perfect Swedish villages deep in the forest. We have seen capercaillie, moose and, yes, a bear too, crossing the road in front of us as we were driving back from a day’s work.

We have dug a bear skeleton out of a bog to be handed over to the Swedish Veterinary Institute for analysis.

And back at base, where we are looked after very well by Elfie, the datasheets pile up, as do the hair scat samples, to Andrea’s delight. May it all help her in her work to conserve bears in this fascinating part of the world.

Tomorrow is half a day and then data entry. And then it will be the end of this inaugural expedition already. Time flies when you are having fun and I will let the pictures speak for themselves…

Sweden: Ten adults in the rain

“Fascinating how ten adults standing in the rain looking at shit can have such a good time”. This, or something like it, is the quote of the expedition so far.

We met up on Monday and made it to our expedition base in the woods for introductions, a safety briefing, background information and theory and equipment training.

Tuesday was more training and our first winter den survey in one big group – to put everything we’ve learnt so far into practice and to learn as we go.

Today, Wednesday, we started splitting into smaller groups as we get more comfortable with the methodolgy and finding our way around the study site.

So far we’ve had everything from amazing food, to sunshine, drizzle, downpours, to heavy bear scat, digging for bear bones in a water-filled ditch, meeting roe deer and cranes, to getting to grips with datasheets, GPSs, relascopes, denisometres, etc. etc.

Spritis are high, as are exhaustion levels after having spent a day out in the forest.

Tomorrow we are out in smaller groups to cover as much ground for Andrea as we can this week.

Some photo impressions follow:

Tien Shan: Setting up base camp, mostly

Base camp is set up, mostly. The truck heroically made it to our bace camp location high up the Suusamyr valley. We found it undisturbed and beautiful. The local people say summer is coming late this year and we haven’t seen many yurts of herders being set up yet. The Karakol pass is still under a deep layer of snow. It was sunny and warm during our six hour drive, but cold enough for a down jacket after sundown.

Bek and Bekbolot will be the two members of Grupa Bars with the first two teams. They did a great job with loading the truck and driving it up safely. With us will also be Gulya, our cook – probably the most important person during the whole expedition 🙂 All together we  set up two yurts – the kitchen and a common room – and have left the third yurt for the first team to set up upon arrival. While Gulya, Volodya and Bek stayed back at camp to finish setting up everything, Bekbolot, Amadeus and I are now back in Bishkek for more shopping, organising cars and picking up the first group up on Monday morning.

We will start our journey to camp soon after some short introductions and familiarisation with the cars for the drivers.

Enjoy your last day off and come well rested and prepared! 🙂

Bekbolot and Bek in the truck
Setting up base
Setting up base
From left to right: Bek, Volodya, Amadeus, Gulya
The road to base
The road to base, with traffic jam 😉
Setting up the yurts

Sweden: Getting there, sort of

First expedition lesson: Nothing is as constant as the change of plan.

We packed the car to the hilt and drove off with a great plan. Drive to Kiel (northern Germany) and board the overnight ferry to Göteborg (Sweden), get a good night’s sleep and arrive in Sweden fresh for a measly 470 km to the expedition base. The plan was good, the execution poor.

Packed to the hilt

We hit several massive traffic jams and a journey that should have taken six hours, took over ten. We missed the ferry. So no option but to drive past the ferry port and up north into Denmark, cutting east over the famous Öresund bridge that connects Kopenhagen (Denmark) with Malmö (Sweden).

Öresund bridge

So a relaxed journey became a wild ride through the night with a dinghy motel stop for a few hours of sleep. The drive through 720 km of Swedish countryside made up for it, sort of. Trees, trees and more trees. Sunshine. Bullerbü picture-perfect villages. 1800 km and 33 h later and we’re finally here now.

Somewhere on a Swedish road

Tonight is midsummer night, a big night in Sweden. We’re invited to a party and tomorrow we’ll connect with Andrea for a couple of days setting up.

The weather is a pleasant, sunny 20 something. The mosquitoes are out. Come prepared and remember that on expedition nothing is as constant as the change of plan 🙂