Update from our snow leopard project to the Tien Shan mountains
It’s been a whirlwind of activities over the last four days on our snow leopard project: Interviews with locals, an overnight survey in neighbouring Archali valley, as well as our usual cell surveys. And, yes, more snow leopard records.
Interviews with local shepherds
We spent two days interviewing six shepherds with their families. As usual, there was a mix of attitudes towards snow leopards, from not very interested to proud to – unusually – a red leopard of old being a spirit animal that lives high in the mountains and protects people’s souls.
These interviews are important for us to build an all-round picture of the local realities for snow leopards and their prey, from threats through poaching, retaliatory killings to pride in Kyrgyzstan’s national animal and therefore willingness to protect it.
Archali: The neighbouring valley south of base
Archali valley, or valley of the junipers, is the valley south of us. It is very different from our wide Burkhan valley full of livestock. The entrance to it is narrow, the rough driving track running next to the raging Archali river. There is hardly any livestock and fewer herders. After a while, the valley opens – majestic snow-capped 4000 m+ peaks in the south, craggy 4000 m towers in the north. We have camera traps on both and they need to be checked.
So two intrepid groups started the long walk from Burkhan into Archali valley, across passes as thunder rumbled, up to the camera traps, down into Archali where two cars, which had made the slow, bumpy journey, waited and had set up an overnight camp. By the time the groups arrived in the afternoon, the day had brightened. On one side of the overnight camp, the Archali river races past, on the other, a smaller stream from up in the mountains joins it. Framed by these two, the view from camp was spectacular.
It was pot noodles for dinner, the female expeditioners enjoying them in a car, the males outside. No judgement 😉
Later, we shared tales of the road and snow leopards captured on the camera traps. The sun set, the temperature dropped, chasing people into their tents. The night sky was clear, the Milky Way visible, with the odd meteor streaking across the Jessy, pitch-black sky.
Down to 4C the temperature dropped, making our 05:30 start distinctly frosty. Some were already up, feeding us hot drinks until the the sun crested the craggy mountain chain in the east, bathing us in its warming rays. By 06:30 we were on our way. More camera traps to be checked, more valley surveys to be done.
Not a cloud was in the sky and that day no snow leopard on the traps. But the zeros are as important as the ones in science.
By mid-day it was time to head back to base on the dusty road, ten tired expeditioners and one sleeping scientist in the cars, his head bopping up and down with the rhythm of the road. Well done everyone!
Back at base
Back at base, five expeditioners kept the camp running, went through 2000 pictures, did data entry, conducted some valley surveys, met a black stork and also enjoyed the glorious weather. Well done to you too!
As I type this, it is the last day of the expedition. We’re still doing some surveys, but we are also doings some housekeeping before tomorrow’s long drive to Bishkek.
Read also: First I second I third I fourth I fifth I sixth diary entry of the Tien Shan snow leopard project. All Tien Shan 2026 diary entries on one page.
Author: Darran Keogh
Darran Keogh grew up in Ireland and has spent much of his adult life travelling and working in the outdoor industry. He has a degree in Outdoor Education and Geography and is a qualified Mountain Leader and an International Mountain Leader Aspirant. An adventurous spirit has taken him to explore remote areas around the world and in recent years Europe’s great mountain ranges from a base in Chamonix Valley, France. Happiest sleeping under the stars, climbing, surfing or exploring snowy mountains, he is now based in Ireland once again, with his attention turned to conservation: Darren is a member of Ireland’s Governing Body for mountaineering’s Climate action group, has another degree in studying Climate, Sustainability and Environment and is a proud member of the Biosphere Expeditions team. More about Darran.