From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday in Indonesia (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/sumatra)

Those of us who have been around for a few weeks realised recently that something was missing. It took us a while, but finally it was more than obvious: the sound of the jungle has changed compared to the previous weeks. There were no chainsaw noises any longer. The explanation is that the river levels are now too low for being used for transportation of logs. And for us the “true” jungle noises have come to the fore.

On Sunday, our day-off, almost everyone was out on a long boat ride down the southern Subayang. The weather was great and with fantastic manoeuvring in shallow water, Sapri, one of our boat drivers, made it deep into the reserve. It took us 2.5 hours to arrive at the small village of Pangkalan Serai. It is the last village down this river and is almost in the centre of the reserve. Far away from civilisation about 100 families live there. Originally they stayed in traditional houses, but most of them were destroyed during a big flood at the end of the 1990s. For electricity they built a generator that is driven by waterpower. Our appearance was the first time that foreigners like us have been to this village. On the way back we also stopped at a village that is known for its boat makers. It was interesting to see the different steps of the “production” of these longboats.

Jatt had a football match in Tanjung Belit. In the afternoon over 20 players showed up and proved their technical abilities. Although quite a lot of spectators were around, the game takes place in harmony and silence. Even after a goal the excitement is at a minimal level. An interesting experience for us all!

On the work front, we retrieved camera traps installed in previous slots. With great expectations we stared at the computer screen. The result: porcupine, mouse deer and macaques. But this is a good result as it has been our first camera placement. The tiger still remains elusive.

Tomorrow morning Jatt, Ryan and Anh will leave for an overnighter north of Kota Lama. While I am sending you these lines they, are preparing for their adventure.

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From our snow leopard volunteering expedition in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/tienshan)

 

 

You will be glad to know that our visit to the mountains has resulted in a site for camp 1. You can see the location of base camp on this map, as well as the grid lines we will be using during the survey (more below also).

You will also be glad to know that the weather was great and the mountains as beautiful as ever. And that the bread tastes the same, as does the fermented horse milk 😉 The ominous tunnel we have to take through the mountains is also there with much-needed repairs being done to it and delays. We’ll have to see how this pans out when you all arrive, but be prepared for a long break on the way to base camp.

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You will also have seen the publication of last year’s report with our commitment to further research and local involvement, which is just what you are about to do. Remember that science is not safari and that results can take a long time. The great thing about your involvement is that we have a long-term source of help in the field as well as funding. And long-term commitment is what is needed. Thank you to all of you for this!

So, after a brief stint in Bishkek for last minute shopping and to collect Kathy, another member of the Biosphere Expeditions staff, we’re now off again to set up base camp.

So as we prepare at this end, please can you do some more preparation too. In addition to studying the dossier, have a look at the “Methods & equipment” playlist. The bits that are relevant to the expedition are first and foremost our cell survey methodology, followed by GPS, compass & map, Garmin etrex 20, PBLs, camera trapping and binoculars. Enjoy!

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From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday in Indonesia (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/sumatra)

Expedition participant Anh missed nothing more than her luggage when she arrived at Pekanbaru. And still, with the great help of the WWF office, we were able to start the 3rd slot almost on time and arrived safely, with all our luggage, at Subayang Field Station.

This was not the only reason to celebrate as Peter, a veteran of more than a dozen Biosphere expeditions, conveniently arranged to have his birthday on our arrival day. His birthday cake was “inhaled” within seconds.

Expect the unexpected. This was the motto of the first few days of this slot. Already in the evening after our training session, all team members were ready to leave for their next day’s surveys with all equipment packed, destinations checked and GPSs prepared. Very ambitious!

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On our way back from the very first short stay in the field, we were able to watch a small group of siamang monkeys for quite a while. We then found in the middle of the forest in a hilly area something that we were not able to identify from a distance: Unfortunately it was not an unknown species. No, it was a balloon with a funny grin that had probably had been blown there by the wind. Later, we have had a really good interview with a plantation owner that gave us a better understanding of their view. And finally the generator at base camp gave up. So we enjoyed our ‘romantic dinner’ with candles and in unusual quietness.

The generator has been fixed in the meantime and this morning we plan to go down the southern Subayang river, deep into the reserve. Let’s see if the unexpected will continue to appear.


From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday with tigers in Sumatra, Indonesia

From our snow leopard volunteering expedition in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/tienshan)

It’s 06:00 in the morning. Writing this, everyone else is still fast asleep, but very soon it will get busy at the NABU offices. Volodya, the expedition scientist arrived two days ago and preparations are now in full swing. Soon we will be heading out for a reconnaissance drive to the southern side of the Kyrgyz Alatoo range, investigating this year’s conditions on the ground and finding a good spot to set up base camp for slot 1. From what we’ve heard, it has been extraordinarily wet in the mountains over the last few months, most probably there will be snow cover higher up.

A couple of days ago we collected the base camp equipment from storage – a garage outside the city of Bishkek. It’s a good thing we have the truck, kindly supplied by our local partner NABU. Since then every single item has been unpacked and checked. Emma, the expedition cook, joined us on Tuesday, just back from a trip to Russia. We’ve started working through our shopping list at one of Bishkek’s biggest markets. Besides many other kitchen items, we bought a new cooker, but not before Emma gave it a thorough check. After more shopping at innumerable hardware stores and supermarkets, we went to a private supplier to check a yurt we are planning to buy.

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The placement interviews went well. So far four local people will join the expedition slots – one Kyrgyz student in the first slot, two more in the second and one in the third slot. We continue to receive applications and more interviews will be held in the remaining days before our departure from Bishkek.

I’ll be back in touch once we return from our mountain reconnaissance drive.

Continue reading “From our snow leopard volunteering expedition in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/tienshan)”

From our snow leopard volunteering expedition in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/tienshan)

It is sunny and warm in Bishkek. I arrived two days ago on a clear morning just after sunrise. From the plane approaching Bishkek airport from the north, I was had fantastic views over vast flat steppe stretching out all the way to the bottom of the snow-covered Kyrgyz Alatoo mountain range, rising south of the city. For now, having temperatures climbing up to 31 degrees mid-day, I’ve almost forgotten about down jackets and long-johns stashed away in my bag.

Kyrgyz Alatoo range rising just behind Bishkek
Kyrgyz Alatoo range rising just behind Bishkek

I’ve settled in at the NABU Kyrgyzstan office close to Bishkek centre, warmly welcomed by our partners on the ground. Over the last two days we’ve all been busy with gathering the expedition equipment, which has been stored in various locations. I’m still busy with updating inventories and writing shopping lists. NABU’s snow leopard patrol (Grupa Bars), a group of four staff I will introduce you to later in detail, has returned from a camera collection trip to the Ala Archa National Park on the northern side of the mountain range. 21 camera traps will now all be prepared to be set up again within our study area. The SD cards will be checked for results over the next couple of days.

Sign to NABU offices
Sign to NABU offices

I met with the Director of the local mountain rescue services yesterday to discuss emergency procedures and communication lines – all part of Biosphere Expeditions’ safety procedures. Quite a few local placement applicants have been invited for an interview, most of them to be held tomorrow. Offering placement opportunities for local students is part of Biosphere Expeditions’ capacity-building programme (see www.biosphere-expeditions.org/placements). Depending on how the interviews go, one or two local people will join the expedition teams in addition to the team list that has been sent out to everyone.

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From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday in Indonesia (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/sumatra)

The big wedding was a big event and we were honoured to be invited (and photographed a lot as objects of curiosity, especially tall and blue-eyed Will).

Another big topic of discussion was the sighting of a crocodile in the river close to the village. This caused quite a stir and many were quite scared of the beast coming into the village. Never in the recent past has a crocodile been seen in this region, so the fuss is more than understandable.

Unfortunately our team 2 could not match this with any spectacular findings of its own. There were encounters with aggressive wasps, large spiders, a pit viper and – and a very unexpected and interesting interview with loggers! Still, even these small pieces of the puzzle will be a useful addition to the whole picture we are gathering up here. Science often proceeds and progresses in leaps and bounds, so this group was a small step, but a step nonetheless.

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Another step and a highlight was our visit of the school in Kota Lama. After a short traditional welcome dance, we all joined a classroom to follow Febri’s lesson and slideshow about the local environment in general and about tigers in particular. About 40 children, unifromed and up to 14 years of age, paid even more attention as a quiz opened the opportunity to win a prize. There was much excitement as Inge told a story about the important role of each individual in a larger group whilst showing a magic trick (she once was a professional magician). There was more amusement and cultural exchange as Andy showed them the funny southern Californian “Hasta Pronto” (see you soon) handshake.

Yes, two weeks have gone in a flash and I would like to thank everybody for all the diverse input you have contributed. It would be great to see you staying involved.

Hasta pronto!

Ronald


From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday with tigers in Sumatra, Indonesia

From our snow leopard volunteering expedition in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/tienshan)

Hello everyone, this is the first diary entry for this year’s snow leopard conservation expedition to the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan. My name ist Malika and I will be the leader for the first three groups starting on 8 June.

Over the last few days I’ve been busy with preparing paperwork, data sheets, equipment and finally making it all fit into three huge bags now making their way to Bishkek. I’m at Frankfurt airport as I write this, about to board a plane heading east towards Instanbul before catching a connecting flight to Bishkek.

Our partners on the ground at the Bishkek NABU office are ready to help me set the scene once I arrive. Quite some more shopping and preparation needs to be done before the first group of citizen scientists arrives and we are all looking forward to it. We will be working out a day-to-day plan within the next few days (which will be attached to one of the next diary entries for your preparation, along with my local phone number once I have verified the SIM still works). Dr. Volodya Tytar, the scientist on this expedition will be joining us on the weekend. Together with him and the NABU Grupa Bars (snow leopard patrol), I will be looking for this year’s base camp sites

That’s it for now. I’ll be in touch again from Bishkek with more details soon.

Malika Fettak

Expedition leader

Continue reading “From our snow leopard volunteering expedition in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/tienshan)”

From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday in Indonesia (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/sumatra)

John, the birder in this second group, has helped us to open up our bird inventory. Group by group we want to build this catalogue. And it’s good to see how a person with skills such as John’s is able to create interest with others just through passion – and knowledge. Thank you, John.

Things may go wrong….and a broken engine of a boat on its way out to a survey destination in the field is such an example. But with the tremendous energy of Sugi and the boat driver, they managed to paddle back. Thank you!

Mahwel, our camp helper, plays the guitar. So, one evening we were treated to a concert given by Mahwel and Beston (who brought his guitar along). There were internationally known and unknown songs in English, Spanish and Indonesian, with an international audience (Dutch, English, American, German, Indonesian).

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On Thursday we decided to survey a larger area downriver, next to several smaller villages, knowing that we had to expect palm oil and rubber tree plantations. And indeed there were enormous private, fenced and guarded areas with monoculture farming. On a hot, hot day we walked long distances along logging roads without the shady canopy of the forest that still rules upriver. Still, we returned with some good sightings, tracks and, once more, a wildcat scat. Thirsty and exhausted, we invaded a tiny shop for cold drinks, before getting the boat back upriver, into the forest and home.

Heavy thunder and lightning brought a downpour of over 10 hours in the night from Thursday to Friday. The rainforest lived up to its name. The following survey day continued the wet theme with wading, almost swimming, along freshly swelled streams. On Saturday we visited villages around our field camp and concentrated on conducting interviews.

Today, Sunday, is our day off. Almost everyone decided to go out on a boat very early in the morning to float back downriver as the sun rose, watch birds and other creatures. Later, we are all invited to a wedding in Tanjung Belit. Sapri’s (one of our boat drivers) daughter is getting married and apparently a big party awaits….


From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday with tigers in Sumatra, Indonesia

From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday in Indonesia (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/sumatra)

Group 2 arrived safely on Sunday and was put through its training paces and first training surveys.

Yesterday was our first full day out in the field. Splitting into two groups, each had to face the ‘usual’ jungle challenges of wading through streams, climbing over fallen trees and rocks, getting up and down slippery slopes and more. Olga and Inge rocked us through the field with amazing energy and spirit. Besides some minor slips, a lost hat and machete, everybody made it back in one piece and good spirits.

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During the last few days we recorded nice, warm and dry weather during the day and pleasant cool(er) nights. As we now have a small weather station on the patio, I am able to give you more accurate information: temperature during the day between 27 and 33 C, nights 23 to 29 C and humidity between 65 and 80%.

Well, I don’t want to forget to tell all those who are looking forward to attending this expedition that so far everybody was more than pleased with the food that has been served. Even the non-vegetarians are happy 😉

Best wishes

Ronald


From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday with tigers in Sumatra, Indonesia

From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday in Indonesia (http://www.biosphere-expeditions.org/sumatra)

Our first slot has come to a close, and what a busy two weeks it has been. Our overnight team, which were Steve, Michael and Manuela, came back brimming with things to tell us about their night in the jungle. Firstly there was the rain, and lots of it. Their base camp for the night was along a stream off the main river next to the boats. It started raining hard at 21:30. While the three had set their tents uphill a bit, the boat drivers stayed by the boats and after three hours of non-stop downpours, they had to relocate their shelter as the water level started lapping at their feet. The rise in water seemed to flush out a few more local residents as well, in the form of three snakes who did not seem too interested in us as they were swimming along the river.

But the overnighter’s biggest news by a long way was found in their first day during an interview with a rubber plantation guy, who has heard tigers twice in the last two weeks. This was backed up by another interview with a worker at another plantation who also had heard two tigers in the last two weeks. These were both in the same area in the nature reserve and we’re looking forward to getting back in there and setting some camera traps. The team would have done this themselves, but the water level the following morning made it impossible to cross over to the other side. They did, however, set some camera traps in a promising area that we’ll be eager to revisit in in the coming weeks.

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During our last day in the field, actually it was just a half day, as we had to pack up and work through the data input and summary sheets on the computer, Steve spotted another track of a leopard. Wow, really unexpected great news in the last minute of the first slot.

On our last night at the base, one of the park rangers who had been with us at the beginning of the slot came up to the station and told us that the following day they were going into the reserve with a team of twenty, including the police, to try and combat some of the illegal logging taking place.

Well, thank you all for your tremendous input. It was a pleasure working with you. Please don’t forget sharing your photos.

Save travels home and stay involved.

Anthony & Ronald


From our Sumatran tiger conservation volunteering holiday with tigers in Sumatra, Indonesia