Tien Shan: What a start!

Update from our snow leopard volunteer project to the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Group 1 is back from the field – and what a start it was, exceeding all expectations of what the 18 camera traps left in the field by last year’s expedition would yield. Almost every camera we toiled up to at around 4000 m caught snow leopards. Preliminary analysis of pelt patterns yields 8+ individuals, a result we can hardly believe ourselves (and have enquired with colleagues about for confirmation). One camera in particular yielded a spectacular photo:

But there were many others too:

Of course the camera traps not only caught snow leopards, but also many other species such as this rare manul / Pallas cat

A probably even rarer (because they have all been poached out) argali mountain sheep

Ibex

Wolf

An incredibly hardy “yeti” marmot up at 4000 m

Fox

Yak

A curious red-billed cough

Many Himalayan snow cock prancing about

And a lammergeyer photographed by a camera trap that was knocked over (by what we don’t know) and recorded over 10,000 pictures of moving clouds (thanks for going through all of them Aurรฉlie), but also this vulture

But it was not just all about camera traps. We also surveyed cells lower down, conducted interviews and re-affirmed good relations with the local people, ran overnighter surveys and reconnaissance trips into the neighbouring valleys and so much more, yielding this quick summary of results, presented to the team by our local scientist Emil at the end of group 1’s efforts

And what an effort it was! None of this could have been achieved without our 14-strong team of citizen and professional scientists and staff. Thank you to you all and so very well done.

I leave you with impressions of our work, camp and the mountains, as well as feedback from some group 1 participants, and hand the expedition leader baton over to Jonny, who will meet group 2 at the Futuro on Monday.

Update from our Kyrgyzstan expedition to the Tien Shan mountains, volunteering in snow leopard conservation.

Germany : Over so soon

Update from our Germany wolf volunteer project

Yet another two successful weeks of wolf monitoring in Lower Saxony have come to an end. Group 2 left the NaturCampus base on Friday morning headed in different directions after a late night with lots of laughter and bread-on-a-stick around the fireplace.

Once more the teams were hit again and again by rain showers on our last survey day on Thursday but determination to find and collect wolf scat prevailed. Two of us established a new record of walking 22.2 km in ongoing rain!

Within 4 survey days group 2 covered 394 km of forest trails and collected 30 more (possible) wolf scat samples for further analysis two of which fresh enough for DNA analysis. Sightings on the survey walks included hare, red deer, roe deer, wild boar with 10 piglets, various butterflies and birds of preyโ€ฆ and a naked man walking the nudist trail in the Schneverdingen area. The survey team has been warned during Lotteโ€™s briefing but it was still a surprise to run into someone wearing nothing but socks, boots and a hat while oneself was fully geared against rain and cold. ๏Š

Thanks to two groups a total number of 75 wolf scats and 13 genetic samples are now secured, labelled and packed to be handed over together with the database entries to the LJN authorities. They are an enormous addition to the Lower Saxony wolf monitoring efforts and will be included in their official yearly report, as well as territory statistics, maps, etc. to be published on their website. We have covered a total number of 26 cells (10 x 10 km) of the survey grid by walking 650 km in 12 survey days.

For Lotte & I itโ€™s been a great pleasure meeting and working with all of you for a week respectively. Weโ€™d like to thank you again for your time, efforts, input and being great companions in every aspect. A special thanks goes to the drivers and NaturCampus staff that made us feel comfortable and at home. I hope youโ€™ve enjoyed your time as much as Lotte an I did. Weโ€™re hoping to see some of you again some time and wish you all safe travels back home!

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Germany : Sunshine & rain

Update from our Germany wolf volunteer project

Group 2 – a team of ten people from 5 different countries – started off on Sunday with a practical training survey walk nearby NaturCampus following up on a wolf scat finding two days before. We were surprised by a once in a year biking event taking place on the military grounds we were exploring. The terrain is usually closed for the public. Bikers didn’t interfere with our training walk but a heavy downpour did just when we were practicing data recording with the tablets. Despite rain gear and backup umbrellas we all ended up being soaking wet. I like to frame it as an ultimate field test. ๐Ÿ˜‰

Sunshine and rain took turns during the following three survey days in various wolf territories. That didn’t hold us back from long walks and intensive surveys. Unfortunately we didn’t find anything wolf-like in the Suesing forest on Monday which made us wonder what neighbouring area the pack has moved to.

On Tuesday we were more successful in terms of findings. 22 wolf scat samples were brought back to base one of which had a total length of 82 cm! I think this is a first. Speculating about causes for the exceptional big amount of shit, we came up with quite a few creative ideas during the very entertaining daily de-brief – ranging from constipation for a week to making a statement to impress possible intruders.

And finally we secured another fresh DNA sample in the Goehrde forest on Wednesday. During the de-brief we all got a first-hand experience with the undeniable deterrent smell of fresh wolf scat. I must say that scat & its attributes (we now refer to as “beautiful, nice, perfect,…”) have become one main topic of conversation – even during dinner. Just like a bunch of very serious citizen scientists we surely are. Still, we had a good laugh realising that and not at all problems with moving on to more sophisticated dinner table talk.

Everyone is out in the field for one last survey day today. Time is flying….

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Germany : First week completed

Update from our Germany wolf volunteer project

We said our good-byes this morning to group one. What a fantastic week filled with long walks, many findings and lots of fun. To be more specific the teams walked a total of 301 kilometres of forest trails in 4 survey days – an average of 73 km each day respectively. Including our training walk on Sunday, when we collected the first two wolf scats, 305 km were covered in total. 44 (possible) wolf scats were recorded and collected, 9 of which also as DNA samples. Thats’ a great success already, well done everyone!

Beate, a local wolf ambassador and scat expert who is involved with the expedition for many years, joined us on Friday afternoon to support Lotte with scat identification, labeling and data logging into the official LJN database. During dinner she reported about 15 personal wolf sightings and shared some of her knowledge.

Since all scat samples of the week were spread out in the conference & dining room we were welcomed by a very distinct wolf smell when we returned from dinner. Nonetheless we went through the daily de-brief group by group, enjoyed a final presentation of other Biosphere Expeditions projects and finally sat around the fire place to celebrate a wonderful week and enjoy a cool drink.

It was late night when the last of us got to bed – very tired but happy. I’d like to thank you all for being a great team and putting time, work and money into this project. Thanks for being the trailblazers for using new technology, for your input, suggestions and enthusiasm. None of our projects would happen without you! A special thanks goes to those who volunteered to bring their own car and be a driver for the whole week. Your extra contribution is very much appreciated. I hope you’ve enjoyed the week as much as I did and I hope to see some of you again some time, somewhere.

It’s your turn now, group 2. Have safe travels to Bremen and I’ll meet you on Saturday morning at 9:00 at the airport!

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Germany : Surveys

Update from our Germany wolf volunteer project

We have completed three full survey days – writing this four teams are headed out in different directions for their last surveys of group 1. Wolf scat samples are piling up in the scat fridge downstairs, two of which appear to be good for DNA analysis. We’ve been blessed with perfect weather conditions, only some of us got wet on Monday during an afternoon downpour – but that’s what makes an expedition.

Even though almost every day teams “forgot” to pack different pieces of equipment – a printed map of the area, a tablet (!?), and who knows what else… they all managed and brought back from the field perfect recordings. We definitely have to work on that with group 2! Here are some field work pictures:

Intensive surveys make for interesting findings: One team found a handbag in the shrubs and dropped it at a police station nearby for further investigation. Two days later we were informed by the police, that the owner confirmed that it was stolen in 1990! She didn’t want it back … Let’s see what you will find, group 2. ๐Ÿ™‚

With six intensive days behind us, we’re all pretty tired in the evening but have planned a bonfire for our last evening tonight before leaving NaturCampus on Friday morning. You will hear from me again tomorrow, when Lotte and I have wrapped up this week’s results.

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Germany : Training days

Update from our Germany wolf volunteer project

After two training days the first group is all set to go on proper survey walks from tomorrow on. We met up at Bremen airport on Saturday morning and from there went straight to visit the Wolfcenter Doerverden for a guided tour and close encounters with our study species.

We arrived at our lovely NaturCampus base in the afternoon. As usual everyone’s head was filled with more information about safety, procedures and equipment, wolf distribution & history in Germany, how to identify, measure, collect and record wolf scat and tracks.

This afternoon we finally went out on our first practicing survey walk. Unexpectedly we found two wolf scats one of which is fresh enough for DNA analysis. What a success!

Writing this it’s still early in the evening but the noises of people chatting outside have stopped. I guess everyone’s gone to bed early. Well done, group one – you’ll be well rested for four more days of intensive surveys and scat sampling. ๐Ÿ™‚

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Germany : Setting up

Update from our Germany wolf volunteer project

Lotte, Peter & I have arrived at NaturCampus Bockum and are setting up our wonderful expedition base for the next two weeks. We have just retrieved a wolf scat sample from the fridge downstairs collected by a former team member a week ago. Labeled properly it’s in the freezer now for later DNA analysis – thank god, the smell was unbearable!

!! Here’s an important update for all team members: There won’t be an overnighter activity this year for a very simple reason: the former far away study site is actually not far from our actual base at NaturCampus so that we can easily survey all areas within our regular time schedule. Please do not bring a sleeping bag, sleeping mat or tent with you – you won’t need it. !!

Other than that we have unpacked boxes, went throught timetables, lists and pieces of equipment. We’ll have it all sorted by tomorrow night – at least that’s the plan. ๐Ÿ˜‰

We are looking forward to meet team 1 at Bremen airport at 9:00 a.m. on Saturday. Have safe travels & see you soon!

Malika

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Germany : Starting

Update from our Germany wolf volunteer project

This is the start entry for the Germany diary. I am your expedition leader Malika and I will be making my way to the expedition base soon, a few days ahead of you.

After the 2024 sabbatical of the scientist, were back this year in search of wolves and their sign. I hope you have studied your dossier and your preparations are going well. On our side, all’s well and I will be taking most of the research gear up north (I live in the south of Germany) with me next week.

I will write again when I have arrived at our beautiful Manor House base. Until then…

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โ€˜When I come back from expedition, I always feel richer and profoundly privileged for having been to places and done things that I used to believe only existed in an Attenborough world.โ€™

Peter Thoem, a retiree from Canada, has participated in six expeditions so far. โ€˜I have time in my life, the health and the resources – so why notโ€™ is his go-getter attitude in all this. This is why he started with expeditions and what he experienced on them.

Peter in the Tien Shan mountains in 2018

Since 2018 Peter has tracked snow leopards in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan, studied biodiversity in Kenyaโ€™s Masai Mara, Arabian oryx in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve and whales & dolphins on the Azores archipelago.

โ€˜Back in the day, when I was thinking about joining my first expedition to the Tien Shan mountains to study snow leopards, it was the opportunity to get into a really wild area. I could see that few westerners would ever get to see or experience the Tien Shan mountains and that the expedition might yield exciting resultsโ€™, recounts Peter, โ€˜it was simply too good an opportunity to miss.โ€™

And since then? โ€˜Tien Shan was just so thrillingโ€™, says Peter, โ€˜and then the year after โ€“ in 2019 โ€“ there was the chance to do something equally useful in places as fascinating as the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve and Kenya’s Masai Mara. It deeply interested meโ€™. So off he went to the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve first and then a few months later to Africa for back-to-back expeditions in 2019 and 2020, just before the Covid pandemic brought everything to a standstill for a couple of years.

Peter with local rangers on the Kenya Masai Mara expedition


His most recent expedition was to the Azores archipelago, studying whales & dolphins from a catamaran.

When asked about lessons learnt on expedition, Peterโ€™s answers are swift and precise, showing his enthusiasm. He believes that with good planning, an open mind, health and resources, you can do it, because โ€˜it’s a fascinating world out thereโ€™. And further that even if โ€˜our western comforts make us think that everywhere else is scary, it’s not. Yes, some places can be risky, even dangerous, but not everywhere else.โ€™

When asked to summarise his experiences, Peter takes some time to think, smiling to himself and then says: โ€˜Sometimes itโ€™s rigorous โ€“ we have work to do and protocols to follow, we have to understand what’s expected. We have to coalesce as a team and appreciate each other’s strengths and not-so-strengths. Then we have to find ways to work with the less committed โ€“ some are day-dreamers, others are bloggers who don’t always contribute much.โ€™ But it always works out in the end: โ€˜We come from all corners of the world, some of us have even met before, because we’re committed to the Biosphere Expeditions ethic. And when I return, I always feel richer and profoundly privileged for having been to places and done things that I used to believe only existed in an Attenborough world.โ€™

Peterโ€™s most abiding memories include standing on the slope of a remote valley in Kyrgyzstan with a clear blue sky. โ€˜It’s just warm enough to unzip my jacket. I’m surrounded by yellow expanses of spring flowers, there’s rushing meltwater cascading off snow-draped mountains around me and I had to pinch myself. Is THIS really me? Am I really here?’

Or there is the time when Peter was on his middle-of-the-night-shift keeping watch over a waterhole in Kenya’s Masai Mara. There are elephants around and hippos lie in the waterhole, but it’s quiet except for the odd grunt, splash or snuffle. Then from across the valley comes a strange upside-down bark, like indrawn breath ‘EEeeeeYiP’. What’s that, Peter asks the ranger. โ€˜Hyaenaโ€™, the ranger replies and Peterโ€™s spine tingles.

And most recently, in 2024, on the expedition boat off Faial, one of the islands of the Azores archipelago: โ€˜The sea is lively and we have to hold on white-knuckle tightโ€™, remembers Peter, โ€˜we’re all doing our tasks as assigned when a blue whale is sighted. We slow down and carefully approach โ€“ again everyone does as instructed โ€“ gathering data: time, water temperature, sea-state; taking photos, watching, counting and more. And then we’re spell-bound. There in front of us, all but immersed, visible yet almost invisible is the world’s largest mammal. It blows a couple of times, then dives to depths that take it out of the realm of human comprehension.โ€™

A blue whale: a spell-binding animal for Peter

With all those experiences, what impact have the expeditions had on Peterโ€™s daily life, away from expeditions? Again, Peter does not hesitate: โ€˜I’m seen and known for having just come back from another exotic place. Where are you going next, people ask. I have a greater understanding and appreciation of the value of citizen scienceโ€™. An appreciation that has contributed to a structured long-term project on bird populations close to Peterโ€™s home (now in its 10th year).

And what about Peterโ€™s connection to nature? Has this changed through the expedition experiences heโ€™s made? โ€˜My connection with nature has always been strongโ€™, Peter responds, โ€˜and I feel that I have a reasonable understanding of how the balance of nature all weaves together. The expeditions give me the chance to see some of those interactions and inter-relationshipsโ€™. And Peter adds an example of this: โ€˜With Alan, our expedition scientist in Kenya, we watched a small group of impala ingesting mineral-rich soils. Alan was ecstatic, it was, he said, the first known-to-science example of geophagy (animals eating soil, usually for its mineral content) by impalas. My photos made it a publishable observationโ€˜.

Impala geophagy at the Memusi mineral (salt) lick, photo courtesy of Peter Thoem.

The interview ends with the question of what Peter would tell others who are thinking about joining their first expedition. Peter laughs and just says: โ€˜If it appeals to you, then set aside your fears and just go do itโ€™.

Find an overview of all upcoming expeditions here.


Also see Peter’s birding blog entries for Kenya and Arabia

Sweden Expedition 2025: Wrap-up

Update from our Sweden bear volunteer project

The 2025 expedition is done. Over 10 expedition days and with the help of ten citizen and professional scientists from six countries (Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Spain, UK), we found and recorded 51 dens (17 anthill, 4 anthill/soil, 6 nest, 16 rock and 8 soil dens).

We also collected 11 first scats at dens, which is a record that Dr. Andrea Friebe, the expedition scientist, called “sensational”.

We also removed three camera traps and entered all the data into the database.

This has once again been a very significant contribution to the Scandinavian Brown Bear Research Project’s database and studies and we are expecting scientific publications that use these data soon (as well as the usual annual expedition report).

Thank you so much to all our citizen scientists who have made this possible by contributing their time and funds. Without you, there would be no expedition. You have been an exceptionally effective and determined team and we take our hats off to you for the effort you have put in.

Also Read: What Volunteering With Brown Bears in Sweden is Really Like

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