Malawi: Training

Update from our Malawi expedition volunteering with elephants, hippo, cats, pangolins and African biodiversity

The 2024 Malawi expedition has started! The team of elevencitizen scientists arrived late on Sunday, a little delayed by inevitable bad roads and a misunderstanding by the fastidious guards at the Vwaza Wildlife Reserve gates. But they arrived in good spirits. It wasn’t long before the team were settled into base camp and rewarded with a good supper after their long journey from Lilongwe.

We have now completed day 1 of two days of training in how to operate safely in this environment and how to do the scientific research. The day’s training ended with a hike along the lakeside, accompanied by an armed ranger, to practice the hippo transect methodology and also to get a feel for our research area. We came across plenty of hippos including the sight of a bull hippo chasing off an interloper in the lake, dramatically splashing through the water like clumsy dolphins. The team successfully recorded the information they needed to for the hippo transect. We also spotted the clear tracks of a hyaena in the sandy vehicle track by the lake – a significant discovery as hyaenas are rarely seen here in Vwaza.

Crocodiles were spotted on the edge of the lake, along with egrets, ibises and spoonbills. We saw impala and kudu in the distance along with a trio of warthogs. By the time we walked back to base camp, we came across a massive troop of yellow baboons in the warm evening light and as the sun set, some of the hippos were beginning to venture out of the water to head off to spend the night wandering through the bush, browsing the vegetation.

This evening some of the team have headed off in two off road vehicles to place the remaining camera traps, armed with spotlights to see what nocturnal animals are out there.

Tomorrow will be focussed on the elephant research methodologies. I am crossing my fingers that some elephants will make an appearance, to help with the training.

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Malawi: Vwaza

Update from our Malawi expedition volunteering with elephants, hippo, cats, pangolins and African biodiversity

Chimwemwe (one of our two field assistants) and I have arrived at base camp at Vwaza Marsh, as an advanced party to get it ready for the expedition. It’s looking good. We will now get all the expedition kit and systems sorted before you arrive on Sunday. Before then, we expect the arrival of expedition scientist Lea, field assistant Wanangwa and cook Luka, some time tomorrow.

It’s great to be back here at Vwaza. The weather is hot: our new digital weather station reports a maximum of 32 degrees, but breezy. No problems with mosquitoes or tsetse flies so far. The baboons are prevalent at base camp – I had to chase a cheeky big male out of our living area just now. We have also seen many hippos and kudus and many birds (heard and seen). I haven’t spotted any elephants yet, but the guys here tell me they are around and have even come through base camp recently.

Chim and I are setting off soon to place some of the camera traps and I fully expect we will see some more wildlife on our evening excursion – maybe even our first elephant encounter.

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Malawi: Lilongwe

Update from our Malawi expedition volunteering with elephants, hippo, cats, pangolins and African biodiversity

Less than a week until the expedition starts, and preparations are going well for the Malawi expedition.

I have arrived in Lilongwe and Malawi has welcomed me back as an old friend! It’s good to be here again. It’s pleasantly warm – comfortable T-shirt weather.

I am enjoying listening to distinctly African bird calls even here in the city.

I am now checking kit and reviewing plans with expedition scientist Lea and the rest of the LWT team, before heading up to base camp at Vwaza in a couple of days.

Expedition leader Roland and expedition scientist Dr. Lea Stracquadanio

I even had enough time to pop over to LWT’s wildlife rehabilitation centre in Lilongwe and meet some of the wildlife species we will encounter (yellow baboons) or might encounter (spotted hyaena) at Vwaza.

Robert from LWT is already at Vwaza making sure the camp is ready for us.

I will send another update when I get to Vwaza.

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Tien Shan: Done for 2024

Update from our snow leopard volunteer project to the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Our third and final Tien Shan group was full of enthusiasm and hard work. There was a real buzz around camp and everyone was motivated to get stuck in.

We have captured snow leopard on our camera traps a total of four times (total of 14 images captured) and sent back 13 scat samples to Germany to be DNA-tested whether they really are from the ghost cat. We have felt their presence and it is hard to imagine that they haven’t observed us from a distance.

We planned an overnight expedition with two of our 4x4s to the east side of the Jil Suu valley to survey a large swath of prime habitat, but we were stopped in our tracks at the first hurdle: A road that we drove just two weeks ago was now impassable due to heavy rain “redesigning” the numerous river crossings. We returned to basecamp and decided to turn our attention to the east side of the Burkhan valley instead.

Another expedition team spent two days hiking in the mountains with an overnight stay in the Archaly valley to the south of our basecamp. They were able to place camera traps at a promising 4000 m pass and we are excited to see the results next year.

We were invited to join the local shepherds at a type of mid-summer celebration where all families from the same area let their hair down for the day. They had set up yurts with mountains of food and a loudspeaker to dance to Kyrgyz techno music. We were greeted gleefully and invited to talk in front of the more than 100 people that had congregated in the Burkhan valley. The Grupa Bars addressed the crowd and talked about the work we are doing here followed by talks from the expedition leader, expedition scientist and citizen scientists. We expressed our gratitude to our neighbours for their welcoming nature during our stay in the valley and their constant assistance and co-operation.

On our second to last day, we ventured to a ridge line to place camera traps, where we had discovered evidence of snow leopard. On the steep hike up the grass slope we were fortunate to witness a large group of seven to eight ibex walking on the ridgeline far above us, their silhouettes unmistakable against the deep blue Tien Shan sky. As we approached the top of the ridge, we made an effort to limit our noise in case they were still around. Sure enought, there was a small plateau around 150 m below the ridge where there was a group of over 40 ibex resting, the largest group of ibex we have seen on this expedition. We were able to observe them for a few minutes before they were startled by something and fled across the rocky, precipitous hillside out of sight.

The 2024 has been extremely successful and our citizen scientists have collected a huge amount of data. We have surveyed over 130 cells amounting to a total area of 520 square kilometres (!), looking for signs of snow leopards and their prey and assessing biodivrsity. We have placed 17 camera traps in the mountains to capture photos until our return in 2025 and have sent 13 vials of potential snow leopard scat to Germany to be DNA tested. Thank you to everyone involved to make this possible: NABU and the Grupa Bars, our scientist Emil, our local helpers and friends in the study site, in Bishkek and around the world, and most of all our citizen scientists, whose input in labour and funding make this expedition possible in the first place. I take my hat off to you all for doing this. Thank you.

Johnny Adams
Expedition leader

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Malawi: Ready, apps, go

Update from our Malawi expedition volunteering with elephants, hippo, cats, pangolins and African biodiversity

The Malawi 2024 expedition is fast approaching and I’m really looking forward to leading it again this year. I will be heading out to Malawi and to our base camp in Vwaza a week or so before the expedition starts, working with our partners to get everything ready.

We will be continuing the same research tasks we have carried out in previous years, with a big focus on elephants and hippos. But we also record other wildlife of interest, including the wonderful, colourful, lyrical birdlife. To identify birds and to record miscellaneous wildlife on the expedition, it will be very helpful if you could install two free apps on your phone before you get to Vwaza. You can find them on Google Play or the Apple App Store on your phone, or click the links below:

iNaturalist: iPhone I Android
Birds of Africa: iPhone I Android

After you have installed Birds of Africa, you will need to create an account, and then tap the ‘Countries’ button and download the Malawi dataset. This is a pretty big file, so best do it when you fast internat, and allow some time.

Apart from that, just read the the 2023 report and the expedition dossier (again), including the kit list and start getting excited! More updates to follow from Malawi in a week or so.

Roland Arnison
Expedition leader

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Tien Shan: Group 3 update

Update from our snow leopard volunteer project to the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan

The last two camera traps still out in the field from 2023 are proving elusive. Perhaps they have gone “missing”. Never mind. This happens.

BUT we have an amazing snow leopard photo from another trap from just six days ago. I will share this next weekend when we return from the field to Bishkek with this final group.

Today everyone is heading out on an overnighter to increase our reach as usual.

A couple of days ago we joined a community gathering of over 100 shepherds and gave a talk to them about who we are, what we do here and why. This was a good and successful undertaking.

More details, pictures and news in a week.

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Tien Shan: Group 3

Update from our snow leopard volunteer project to the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Group 3 have arrived and are on their way to base camp.

With this group, we will retrieve the last two camera traps still out in the field from 2023, place new ones and check the ones put out in groups 1 & 2, survey more cells, conduct more herder interviews farther afield and hold a community information event at our base camp.

As always, updates from the field will be scant with no up-to-date pictures until changeover. Wish us luck for this final group.

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Tien Shan: Snow leopard tip-off (sort of)

Update from our snow leopard volunteer project to the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan

During the final week of group 2, we received a tip from a local herder that he had seen a snow leopard at close range on two separate occasions in the same area. The area was in the same valley that we conducted our group 1 overnight mountain expedition in, so we know the area well.

We arranged to meet with the local herder, so he could show us the location and we could scope out camera trap locations. On the day we were supposed to meet, there was heavy rain and the forecast promised a wet day. Still, Emil and I were unperturbed by the weather and made our way to meet him, but he was suddenly “busy” for the day and unable to show us the location, but gave us some very brief details about the area and some geological features to identify it by.

After about an hour of walking, we were able to identify the area specified, but were surprised as it didn’t seem like classic territory for snow leopards. There were numerous cattle in the area and it was at a relatively low altitude with lots of grass and vegetation. We scoured the area for tracks, scat or scratch marks, but couldn’t find any evidence. We placed two camera traps in the vicinity and will report back, if we record anything interesting during group 3.

Overall, relations with the local community are very good. We have now conducted 16 herder interviews, which pretty much covers the big valley that base camp sits in. During group 3, we will move further afield.

Felt souvenir production for the expeditioners, bread-making and milk production for the expedition and therefore some income generation for the community is in full swing. Our information evening we had to postpone again to group 3, but I am determined that it will happen.

Tip-off valley
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Tien Shan: Group 2 summary

Update from our snow leopard volunteer project to the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Our second group was an expedition of two distinct halves. The first week was characterised by expansive blue skies with wall-to-wall sunshine. The second week was a different beast altogether, with gloomy skies, rain and thunderstorms almost daily. The weather, however, did nothing to dampen the enthusiasm and motivation to conduct research and get deep into the mountains.

The first few days were filled with training and briefings before we got into the nitty gritty of the work we are here to do – research snow leopards, their prey and survey their natural habitat. We have been very successful in this aspect with 85 different cells already sampled, amounting to a total of area of 340 square kilometres surveyed.

Our scientist Emil led a group of willing expeditioners deeper into the mountains on a three-day expedition across a 4000 m pass that leads into the Jil Sul valley to the north of our base camp. This enabled us to survey cells that would be impossible to reach in just one day and to place camera traps in promising locations.

Another team conducted an overnight expedition by car deep into the valley to survey cells at a lower to mid altitude and were fortunate to find wolf scat as well as evidence of snow leopard prey species and some interesting bird sightings.

I am currently back in Bishkek making our preparations for the third and final group. Emil and I have been working hard on a camera trap plan, so there will be plenty of opportunites to get into the high mountains during the next two weeks.

Thank you to group 2 for your hard work and we are looking forward to meeting group 3 on Monday.

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Tien Shan: 4000 m

Update from our snow leopard volunteer project to the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan

The weather has been kind to group 2 – we’ve had sunny days all week.

We have now retrieved all but two camera traps from last year and they have yielded lots of prey species and another wolf, but no more snow leopard photos.

Camera trap in place

We have also found an argali skull and horns, so these iconic and elusive mountain sheep are around, but rarely seen.

Argali

We have also conducted eight more herder interviews.

Herder interview

We have an overnight mini-expedition with an advance base camp planned for the second half of this group. This will take us north via a 4000 m pass to survey more cells and place camera traps.

Advanced base camp

Also planned is a community information evening, during which we will explain who we are, what we do and ask how the community can and wants to be involved and benefit financially from our work, for example by supplying us with produce such as milk and bread or by helping with supply runs or producing felt gifts (felting is a great tradition and skill here).

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