โ€˜You could just feel that no-one wanted to leaveโ€ฆโ€™

Tired of feeling passive, and yearning to get closer to nature, Martyn Roberts swapped safari holidays for expeditions – and learned as much about himself as he did about wildlife.

Martyn Roberts on the Azores whale & dolphin expedition in 2024
Martyn Roberts on the Azores whale & dolphin expedition in 2024

Martyn Roberts never forgot his first safari in South Africa – it left him wanting more. He loved the thrill of being close to wildlife โ€” but as he put it, โ€˜I wanted to get hands-on. I wanted to make a difference, to do something more demanding that allowed me to express these beliefs, ideas and interests.โ€™ Those hopes lingered until 2002, when a chance encounter led him to Biosphere Expeditions and a life-changing trip to Namibia.

At the time, Martyn had just come out of his first marriage and was ready for something new, something bold. His earlier safari was too short, too passive. So when he discovered Biosphere Expeditions and heard about an upcoming two-week project in Namibia, he took a leap of faith. โ€˜I wouldnโ€™t call it the hard sell,โ€™ Martyn says as he recalls his first conversation with Matthias, the expedition leader, โ€˜but he insisted that I join. It was an encounter with the unknown.โ€™

For Martyn โ€” who had always travelled with friends, family or a partner โ€” heading off by himself to find the meeting point in Windhoek felt like a huge step. โ€˜Yes, it was the first time Iโ€™d travelled on my own,โ€ he remembered. โ€˜I wasnโ€™t overly worried, but I was apprehensive. What would it involve? It was a leap into the unknown.โ€™

What he found in Namibia wasnโ€™t at all what heโ€™d expected. โ€˜The country itselt โ€ฆ just how wild and desolate it was,โ€™ he marvels. โ€˜So much bigger than I expected. The cheetah was the species we worked with – I was a bit surprised how well it all ran!โ€™ He still laughs about his first meeting with another big beast: Matthias, in a Windhoek cafรฉ, when Martyn realised his expedition leader was nothing like the โ€˜old man with a big beardโ€™ heโ€™d imagined.

Gruelling hours, hard physical work and pushing comfort zones: Martyn discovered much more than animals alone. He and his team had to maintain vehicles, drive out into remote areas, check camera traps, and spend hours in hides. โ€˜Everyone was silent when Matthias asked who wanted to drive,โ€™ Martyn says. โ€˜I stuck my hand up and said, โ€˜Iโ€™ll give it a go,โ€™ driving people Iโ€™d never met, hours out of town, in a foreign country, at times when youโ€™re tired can be challenging. But you do it.โ€™

Martin driving in Namibia in 2002
Martyn driving in Namibia in 2002

That first two-week expedition changed the course of Martynโ€™s life. He kept returning: Altai, Sumatra, Brazil, drawn back again and again. โ€˜As each expedition happened, you could sense a change,โ€™ he explains. โ€˜I thought, โ€˜I like this. This is good. Weโ€™re giving a lot and getting a lot.โ€™ And you could feel no one wanted to leave.โ€™ Simply deciding to go – and accepting responsibility for getting himself to the rendezvous point, no matter how remote – was a challenge in its own right. But he relished it. โ€˜Itโ€™s the first test to see if youโ€™re independent and can take responsibility.โ€™

Of all the expedition he’s been on taken, Sumatra in 2015 stands out as a defining moment. Heat, humidity, dense jungles, the exhaustion of wading through waterlogged terrain – it tested him like nothing else. โ€˜We had base camps with WWF, rats in the night, someone set up a camera so we got rat TV every morning,โ€™ he chuckles. โ€˜But the expedition work was seriously challenging. I approached the expedition leader talking about quitting – I was in my late 50s and finding it tough. A couple of days I didnโ€™t go out because it was too hard, and I felt I was holding the group back. But I got back in the end!โ€™ Itโ€™s a point of pride that he persevered. โ€˜Even with Wellington boots, boggy ground, up and down, thigh-deep in water โ€ฆ it was unpleasant. But I managed,โ€™ he says. โ€˜Itโ€™s addictive. Canโ€™t get there from here? You can, you can, because youโ€™re part of a team.โ€™

Tough expedition work in Sumatra
Tough expedition work in Sumatra
Martyn (foreground left) asking local people about tigers in Sumatra 2025
Martyn (foreground left) asking local people about tigers in Sumatra 2015

Returning home after each of these experiences has been its own kind of challenge. โ€˜Itโ€™s a bit like the post-holiday blues,โ€™ Martyn admits. Heโ€™d come back buzzing with stories: Muddy boots, extraordinary wildlife encountersโ€”but maintaining his passion at home wasnโ€™t easy. Still, that energy proved infectious for friends who saw just how transformative the expeditions had been for him.

In time, Martyn also realised that his once โ€˜rose-tinted viewโ€™ of wildlife charities had grown more nuanced. โ€œBefore expeditions, I supported charities like WWF. You think everything runs smoothly. But then when you do it yourself, helping professionals, you realise how difficult it is, how many challenges you face โ€” itโ€™s not as easy as you might think,โ€™ he muses. The fieldwork – hauling camera traps, trekking through punishing environments, collecting data – deepened his respect for conservationists. โ€˜I do it two weeks a year, and itโ€™s made me realise money isnโ€™t everything. Commitment, courage, consistency: thatโ€™s critical,โ€™ he says.

Martynโ€™s convictions havenโ€™t dimmed; theyโ€™ve evolved. His adventures have taken him across continents, from desert scrubs to humid jungles, always in search of something more meaningful than a fleeting holiday. Each expedition tested him in a new way. Each time, he rose to the challenge. Now, he canโ€™t imagine who heโ€™d be without those experiences – or the confidence theyโ€™ve given him. โ€˜For some people, this might be a one-off. But I realised I relish it,โ€™ he says, bright-eyed with the memory. โ€˜Itโ€™s rare in life. You give a lot, but you get a lot back, and that changes you.โ€™

Thailand: Done

Update from our Elephant conservation volunteer holiday Thailand

The Thailand 2024 expedition has now ended and all citizen scientist have left base with a little sadness, but also a spring in their step and plans to join future expeditions. It’s suddenly gone very quiet here without them. Just the sounds of cicadas, children, chickens, dogs, a passing buffalo and the calming gurgle of the river.

The last few days saw us continuing to observe the elephants and record their behaviour, adding to the impressive dataset. The final day in the field was hot, but fortunately for us the elephants headed for the shade of the forest and the cool of the streams for most of the time and we all had a wonderful few hours watching elephants forage, explore, dust bathe, drink and interact: simply living the natural elephant life.

Over the course of the expedition, we collected 142 hours of records of elephant activity, calf development, types of plants eaten and association between individual elephants. We also completed two biodiversity transect surveys near to base. Scientist Laura is really happy with what we have achieved and in due course she will write up the results and conclusions from our data in the expedition report.

Our final hike back from the forest was great. We passed and greeted the locals sharing the same trail, by foot and motorbike, to get to the rice fields. We enjoyed the sight of butterflies, lizards and praying mantises.

I would like to thank the excellent team at KSES โ€“ Kerri, Laura and Cris – who hosted us, oversaw the science and gave us an insight into the world of captive Asian elephants released into their natural habitat. Thank you to Kanda, our young local guide who kept us safe and was always so warm and smiley. Thanks too to the villagers of Ban Naklang who fed and accommodated us in their home stays: Baw Eh, Tawahmoh, Nee, Jadee, Lujet and Seeva. And a big thank you to Neele, Anette, Stephen, Brandon, Jim, Rachel and Ed, the expedition citizen scientists who made this conservation research expedition such a success. You were a great team: hard-working, punctual, cooperative, appreciative of the value of the work we do here and altogether had a great attitude to the expedition. I hope to see you again on a future expedition.

Continue reading “Thailand: Done”

Thailand: Rain, sun and elephants

Update from our Elephant conservation volunteer holiday Thailand

We have settled into a good routine now. A one hour hike to the forest, setting off sometime between 06:00 and 10:00, depending on which period scientist Laura needs data for that day, followed by two or three hours of data collection with the elephants.

Once we find the elephants, we split into teams โ€“ generally one citizen scientist per elephant plus a team of two who will record where each visible elephant is in relation to the rest. If the elephants drift away from each other, we have to decide whether our teams should follow them or if it is more useful for us to watch from a distant vantage point. We need to be adaptable. On two days we have had to spend our time fighting through the jungle, following the elephants as they trample their way through thick vegetation. There is a real art to choosing where to go and when, in order to get a good view of your target elephant so you can record its behaviour, while keeping our distance for safety reasons (and to avoid annoying the elephant). It keeps you on your toes (or sometimes off your toes when you trip over terrain that the elephants find effortless to traverse).

Laura, the scientist is happy with the data we have collected so far and the team are operating well, whatever the time of day, weather and conditions.

The rain has stopped now and we are being reminded how hot it gets here when the sun is fully out and the air still. A good day for drying out. Tomorrow is our last day of data gathering โ€“ likely to be in the forest as the elephants will probably retreat from the open grass field when it gets too hot. But in the meantime, we have another bio-hike to do this afternoon: a transect survey of a path near our base, recording the numbers and diversity of insect life. After that โ€“ large helpings of good Thai food for supper, with perhaps a cold beer to celebrate another successful day completed on this expedition.

Continue reading “Thailand: Rain, sun and elephants”

Thailand: Elephants and insects

Update from our Elephant conservation volunteer holiday Thailand

Our first two days of research have sped by. The core activity involves hiking out to where the six elephants that we are studying live and observing them for a few hours. Working on different methodologies, we record each animal’s behaviour, how the elephants associate with each other and what plants they eat.

On both our research days, the elephants have been foraging in a large sloping field of tall grass, rather than in the nearby forest. Our best vantage point to watch them is on the opposite side of the small valley. This has the added benefit of a large shelter we can stand under when it rains. It rained incessantly all day today, but with that shelter, use of umbrellas and the upbeat attitude of our small team of citizen scientists, our spirits were high.

We happily watched and recorded the elephants as they foraged, explored, dust-bathed and interacted with each other. The two younger females tend to hang out together along with the 18-month old calf. The two adult bulls usually stay apart although one of them (father to the calf) does readily join the trio. The old matriarch tends to keep herself to herself.

With some spare time this afternoon, we carried out an extra research task. The appealingly named ‘Biohike’ is a transect survey of insects contributing to a long-term study of biodiversity in the area near our base, including habitats affected by elephants, which have a significant and long-term ecological impact as they trample, break up and uproot the vegetation as they pass through.

This evening we will be eating dinner with our homestay hosts and tomorrow it’s back to watching and recording the elephants. The expedition team is doing well.

Continue reading “Thailand: Elephants and insects”

Thailand: Elephants

Update from our Elephant conservation volunteer holiday Thailand

The expedition has got off to a cracking start. The team assembled in Chiang Mai and travelled to base camp, all present and correct and on time: always a relief at the beginning of an expedition.

Day 1 was pretty full-on, simply with settling in, familiarisation with the base camp and the village, safety briefing and a lecture about the elephants and the work of Kindred Spirit Elephant Sanctuary. We even managed to squeeze in some initial training in the research methodologies we use on this expedition.

Most of the team managed to get some good sleep that first night, despite the unfamiliar nocturnal noises of dogs and geckos and the bustle of the village waking at dawn. We set off after breakfast to find the elephants. This involves a good hour’s walk over the bouncy suspension bridge, through the village, along the river bank, past rice paddies and corn fields and up towards the forest. There were plenty of insects, lizards and plants to distract us en route until finally we spotted the elephants half-hidden in a grassy field. It was a special moment to see five Asian elephants free-roaming and calmly foraging in front of us. The sixth elephant was the calf, โ€˜Juniorโ€™ who would have been somewhere near his mother or aunty โ€“ they tend to stick together as a trio โ€“ but hidden from our view in the tall grass.

We followed the herd as they wandered into the forest and at the first opportunity we paused and watched them from a safe distance so that scientist Laura could give us training in the field, putting into practice what we had learnt in the classroom the day before. It was very helpful for us to get a feel for how to carry out the research tasks when faced with the realities of observing elephants wandering around the forest, half hidden by the trees (or each other) for much of the time. It was a good reality check: conservation research is rarely neat, tidy and simple to do. And of course, it was an utter thrill to be up close with semi-wild elephants showing their fascinating natural elephant behaviour.

We returned to base for lunch, tired, hot, sweaty, but happy, ready for lunch and some more classroom training. Tomorrow we will return to the elephants and begin the research tasks for real.

Continue reading “Thailand: Elephants”

Thailand: From base

Update from our Elephant conservation volunteer holiday Thailand

I have made it to the expedition base: in the small village of Ban Naklang, west of Chiang Mai. The village is nestled by a river surrounded by forested hills: this is where the elephants live and where we will be hiking to carry out our research tasks every day. We stay in homestays in the village: wooden huts on stilts to keep them above any floods and
any unwelcome animals. The village life bustles with people, dogs, chickens, goats and the occasional motorbike. I was woken up this morning by the distinctive loud call of a tokay gecko living in my bedroom โ€“ somewhat startling if you donโ€™t know what it is.ย 

Our base is simple, rustic , practical and comfortable. The main area is on stilts, with good views of the river, the village and lush vegetation. Colourful butterflies flit about andย  lizards dart about the walls. The weather has been warm rather than hot and the occasional rain storm has passed through quickly. A small suspension bridge crosses the river to connect us to the village. It is excitingly wobbly but perfectly safe.ย 

The team here โ€“ myself as expedition leader along with the KSES staff: Kerri (manager), Cris (deputy manager) and Laura (scientist) have been busy preparing for the expedition: checking kit, reviewing protocols, printing documents and getting the base set up just right. Tomorrow we plan to go up into the forest to find the elephants so I can get the lay of the land. And on Monday โ€“ the expedition begins!

Continue reading “Thailand: From base”

Thailand: Chiang Mai

Update from our Elephant conservation volunteer holiday Thailand

It’s not long now until the start of the Thailand elephant conservation research expedition. I have now flown out to Chiang Mai on my way to our expedition base at KSES to get things ready with Kerri and scientist Laura there.

Chiang Mai at night is bustling and busy and there are no obvious problems from the floods a few weeks ago.ย Kerri tells me that the weather at our baseย  is cool in the mornings and hot in the day time. The clothing and kit listed in the expedition dossier will be fine. The elephants seem happy wandering around in the forest whatever the weather.ย 

A couple of practical things: Please make sure you get a ‘True’ SIM card with plenty of data on it, before you leave Chiang Mai (available at Chiang Mai airport) . And download the KoboCollect app on your phone. We will use this to collect data in the field.ย Also bring any old Android phones you have and download the app to this too before leaving.

I’ll send another update when I reach our expedition base.ย 

Roland Arnison
Expedition leader

Continue reading “Thailand: Chiang Mai”

Maldives: Wrap-up 2024

Update from our Maldives coral reef and whale shark expedition

As a wrap-up for the 2024 expedition, we thought you would like to know what our scientist Dr. Jean-Luc Solandt said to Reef Check:

During the 2024 expedition we had to operate near to Guraidhoo (four sites) for most of the week due to the high winds. We also surveyed Bandos Island in N Maleโ€™ atoll.

Surprisingly reasonably healthy reefs just near to Guraidhoo island (Guraidhoo backreef) where we saw considerable damage in 2022 after the construction of the infilled back reef (see this report). In some (particularly back reef) reef areas there appears to have been dominance of lifeforms other than Acropora โ€“ moving towards non-Acropora genera such as Porites rus and Porites cylindrica that are also dominant at Baybeโ€™s.

Porites species dominance

This was evident at Guraidhoo back reef. Guraidhoo fore reef, however, has not recovered its pre-development coral reef condition. Perhaps because the conditions are not suitable for both sediment and wave-action tolerant coral lifeforms such as Porites rus.

These patterns will be discussed in the 2024 report.

Dr. Jean-Luc Solandt on the expedition 2024

Citizen scientists feedback:


Picture selection 2024

Continue reading “Maldives: Wrap-up 2024”

Maldives: Done

Update from our Maldives coral reef and whale shark expedition

The 2024 expedition is done. Instead of waxing lyrical again, why not let some of those involved speak:

Thank you to all of you involved in the expedition. Thank you for making it possible through your input of time and money. Thank you for helping to build a unique dataset, telling a significant story of hope in what can sometimes be a bleak world of nature conservation, especially for coral reefs. We will have to see what comes of it.

So finally, honour where honour is due, here they are, our heroes of the reef:

Continue reading “Maldives: Done”

Azores : 2023 expedition round-up

Twenty-nine expeditioners from eight countries across the world joined the Azores expeditions in March and April 2023. This was the 17th edition in the Azores monitoring the movements, migrations, numbers, group structures and ecology of cetaceans.

Here’s a summary:

Whale watching can be done in a matter of hours, but monitoring cetaceans better to understand their spatial and temporal patterns and how they use of different areas of our oceans, takes years. Biosphere Expeditions has just completed their latest expedition in the Azores and is rapidly approaching two decades of monitoring, in an area of the Atlantic ocean. which is home to over 25 different cetacean species.

Cetacean data collection takes a decade or longer, to reveal meaningful patterns and therefore the value of our research cannot be quantified now, but it will uncountably be invaluable in the upcoming years.

Some feedback is more immediate. Images of sperm whales and blue whales taken this year, have already be matched to other locations in the Azores, and northern Europe. But many more whales have yet to be matched in our database, revealing the vast stretch of ocean they occupy around the Azores. Some individuals have been recorded for the first time this year, again contributing to our understanding of their population.

This yearโ€™s project still has a lot of data to process from over 179 cetacean encounters over 15 days at sea, sighting over 2,000 individuals. But some species are absent from this yearโ€™s research findings and dolphins have been found in lower numbers.

With the expedition fieldwork continuing in March, Lisa Steiner, the expedition scientist, an expert on sperm whales, expresses that โ€œit has been great to extend the data collection beyond the normal tourism season and collect data on a range of species, across a broader time span. The value of this work is very significant as without Biosphere Expeditions we wouldnโ€™t have documented the range of species, including several Sei, Humpback, Fin and Blue whales, since there are fewer tour boats out at this time of yearโ€.

Being able to conduct field research during the โ€˜off-seasonโ€™ reveals new information such as species being absent or present in lower or higher numbers compared to other years.

โ€œThe ability to collect such data is greatly enhanced by the annual contribution of Biosphere Expeditionโ€™s participants,โ€ says Craig Turner (expedition leader), โ€œand underlines the value of long-term data sets in illustrating the importance of the Azores for certain cetacean species.โ€

This data collection approach is being applied to other species of whale, along with dolphin species, such as bottlenose and Rissoโ€™s. The scale of the data collection both in terms of time and space serves to demonstrate the importance of the Azores for several cetacean species and highlights the importance of appropriate conservation management, to ensure these species continue to thrive not just in Azorean waters, but elsewhere in the wider Atlantic Ocean.

Some photo impressions of the expedition:

Vlog by Alice Ford: