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We have found some hope in the gloom. The last reef we assessed, was – in the words of Simon, our expedition scientist – “what a reef should look like”. Great coral cover, quite a few fish, almost no bleaching and very little coral disease. So the expedition ended on a high, as well as some outstanding karaoke, especially from the crew, who had some impressive dance moves in store.
In between the weather tried to thwart us, but we are undeterred, dodging and weaving the squalls, laughing at the sheets of rain and delighting in the sunshine.
We checked lots of reefs like clockwork. And this is exactly what makes an expedition: a journey with a purpose. Our purpose was assessing reef health, revisiting sites and continuing to add to what is now an impressive 12-year database.
Thank you, expeditioners – none of this would exist without you. We hope we also brought some clarity to your own purpose and thinking during what was an all-round very successful expedition.
Group 2 is now also qualified – well done – and checking those reefs.
The stories are as mixed as has been the weather. There are some quite healthy reefs and some that are sick.
Fish are scarce, especially grouper, because there is immense fishing pressure due to (over)tourism and a very active grouper fishery that sells them off as food fish, mainly to Hong Kong as live fish for restaurant aquariums there.
Here we are back again with a smaller, but equally keen group 2.
The weather has turned and it’s more windy, greyer and rainy now. But underwater it’s wet anyway.
We’ve done our check-out dive and are well into our training sessions now. Lectures, pointy dives and fish test today. The proof will be in the pudding.
Group 1 has checked all the reefs on its schedule, well done!
All were repeat surveys to track reef health and development over the years, one of the great advantages of citizen-scientist-funded expeditions, which can fund projects sustainably and reliably for many years (since 2011 in the case of the Maldives), generating long-term datasets that result in many insights and scientific publications.
None of this would happen without the many, many citizen scientists over the years who come to fund and help with this research and conservation work. Thank you!
We’re in the groove now and checking those reefs like clockwork – well done team 1.
We moved to Alifu Dhaalu (South Ari) atoll and studied a couple of sites there, as per our schedule. They were outer sites and coral cover was unchanged from when we visited them last in 2023 (still few fish, as has been the case for more than a decade now – they are just being overfished). The good coral cover, however, is positive news, showing some resilience.
Team 1 is delivering and so is the weather – and the reefs.
After two days of intensive training, we’ve checked our first reef, well half of it, were it not for our very own two Daft Punks reeling in the survey line whilst people were still busy with the survey :))
But that’s exactly what the very first survey is for – after 48 hours of crash coursing – to get familiar with how it all comes together underwater. So no sweat and same again this morning, as per ze schedule, ja!
Expedition scientist Simon and I have arrived on our liveaboard base in the Maldives and are setting up as we speak.
The liveaboard harbour is – against expectations – still here and has not been filled in for housing. We have a quiet corner amongst other liveaboards although there is some hammering and shouting going on as I type this as last minute repairs are done.
As a wrap-up for the 2024 expedition, we thought you would like to know what our scientist Dr. Jean-Luc Solandt said to Reef Check:
During the 2024 expedition we had to operate near to Guraidhoo (four sites) for most of the week due to the high winds. We also surveyed Bandos Island in N Male’ atoll.
Surprisingly reasonably healthy reefs just near to Guraidhoo island (Guraidhoo backreef) where we saw considerable damage in 2022 after the construction of the infilled back reef (see this report). In some (particularly back reef) reef areas there appears to have been dominance of lifeforms other than Acropora – moving towards non-Acropora genera such as Porites rus and Porites cylindrica that are also dominant at Baybe’s.
Porites species dominance
This was evident at Guraidhoo back reef. Guraidhoo fore reef, however, has not recovered its pre-development coral reef condition. Perhaps because the conditions are not suitable for both sediment and wave-action tolerant coral lifeforms such as Porites rus.
These patterns will be discussed in the 2024 report.
The 2024 expedition is done. Instead of waxing lyrical again, why not let some of those involved speak:
Thank you to all of you involved in the expedition. Thank you for making it possible through your input of time and money. Thank you for helping to build a unique dataset, telling a significant story of hope in what can sometimes be a bleak world of nature conservation, especially for coral reefs. We will have to see what comes of it.
So finally, honour where honour is due, here they are, our heroes of the reef:
Four days into the expedition, we’ve hit the groove. The first couple of days were intense, as always – cramming fish ID, invertebrates, substrate, coral disease & impact into citizen scientists’ brains, no gain without pain, late night sessions, tests, re-tests, success, until it all drops off and we can get into the real work of surveying. Well done to the team for rising to the challenge.
Yesterday, we did a test survey and this group of citizen scientist divers quietly got on with the job so well that our professional scientist Jean-Luc accepted the data. More surveys today, despite the squalls and the currents. Now, as night has fallen and I type away, they are on a night lazy dive, meaning there’s no surveying involved. Whether this is a reward or not, I am not sure.
The story from the Maldives that seems to be developing here, may be one of global significance, with echoes of it around other places in the tropics. The inner reefs, built over millennia in shallow waters, are suffering and increasingly seem doomed by climate change. Their corals simply cannot cope with the higher temperatures, gradually fading and dying, leaving space for other lifeforms to take over. Lifeforms that do not build reefs, so ocean rainforests turn to monocultures devoid of much life except a few specialised species. The outer reefs, however, exposed to colder waters from the open ocean are more resilient. But here too a great shift seems to be going on – the corals that cannot tolerate warmer waters fade away; the ones that can cope better with warmer waters survive and take over the vacant spaces. Evolution in action, reminiscent of a great city where gangs fight for turf and survival.
Does that mean that the outlook for reefs is not as bleak as it seems? Who knows. We need more time to study this, compare it to other parts of the world and draw conclusions. Whether we have the time to do this is another story. The supertanker is heading towards the harbour wall at full speed and nobody has turned the rudder around so far – far from it. Whatever we do, the corals themselves will provide the answer over time. The planet itself does not care what we humans do to it anyway. It’s been through much bigger upheavals and it is still the insignificant speck of dust it has always been at the edge of the great expanse of time and space.
But right here, in our very own great expanse of blue and azure, on this liveaboard, with this team of enthusiastic and capable citizen scientists and newly qualified Reef Check Ecodivers, it means our dives are not depressing at all. We’ve seen healthy reefs with healthy corals. Some bouncing back from development and other stresses, some quietly doing their thing despite the climate upheavals above the water.
So we dive right in, lay our 100 m line of science, count the fish, invertebrates, corals and much more along it and come out smiling. And that really is a reward, well deserved by all those on board who have opted to be small cogs in the wheels of reef research and conservation. Thank you for this.
Biosphere Expeditions: blogs from the frontline of wildlife conservation and the fight for a more sustainable planet 