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After two training days the first group is all set to go on proper survey walks from tomorrow on. We met up at Bremen airport on Saturday morning and from there went straight to visit the Wolfcenter Doerverden for a guided tour and close encounters with our study species.
We arrived at our lovely NaturCampus base in the afternoon. As usual everyone’s head was filled with more information about safety, procedures and equipment, wolf distribution & history in Germany, how to identify, measure, collect and record wolf scat and tracks.
This afternoon we finally went out on our first practicing survey walk. Unexpectedly we found two wolf scats one of which is fresh enough for DNA analysis. What a success!
Writing this it’s still early in the evening but the noises of people chatting outside have stopped. I guess everyone’s gone to bed early. Well done, group one – you’ll be well rested for four more days of intensive surveys and scat sampling. 🙂
Greetings from Bishkek. Expedition base is now ready for our first group of participants. At an altitude of almost 3000 m, the weather at camp is much cooler at night, around 4 degree celcius and warm during the day, the air is clear and snow is thawing from the surrounding peaks. There has been some rain making for a more interesting approach by vehicles (especially the truck).
Emil, Johnny and myself (Darran)- expedition scientist and both leaders are back in hot and hazy Bishkek collecting the last of the supplies. There will be ample wildlife spotting opportunities from the vehicle as we a approach camp, on the drive out we had a pair of Hoopoe follow the vehicle!
We look forward to meeting the first group of expeditioners in Bishkek tomorrow morning and traveling to the remote Tien Shan mountains. The drive will take approximately 10 hours, a packed lunch will be provided. In the meantime, don’t forget to grab any last minute supplies today before meeting 8am sharp tomorrow morning.
Lotte, Peter & I have arrived at NaturCampus Bockum and are setting up our wonderful expedition base for the next two weeks. We have just retrieved a wolf scat sample from the fridge downstairs collected by a former team member a week ago. Labeled properly it’s in the freezer now for later DNA analysis – thank god, the smell was unbearable!
!! Here’s an important update for all team members: There won’t be an overnighter activity this year for a very simple reason: the former far away study site is actually not far from our actual base at NaturCampus so that we can easily survey all areas within our regular time schedule. Please do not bring a sleeping bag, sleeping mat or tent with you – you won’t need it. !!
Other than that we have unpacked boxes, went throught timetables, lists and pieces of equipment. We’ll have it all sorted by tomorrow night – at least that’s the plan. 😉
We are looking forward to meet team 1 at Bremen airport at 9:00 a.m. on Saturday. Have safe travels & see you soon!
This is the start entry for the Germany diary. I am your expedition leader Malika and I will be making my way to the expedition base soon, a few days ahead of you.
After the 2024 sabbatical of the scientist, were back this year in search of wolves and their sign. I hope you have studied your dossier and your preparations are going well. On our side, all’s well and I will be taking most of the research gear up north (I live in the south of Germany) with me next week.
I will write again when I have arrived at our beautiful Manor House base. Until then…
Bishkek is hot, dry, sweaty, noisy and oh so Central Asia. On a clear day the views of the mountains are beautiful.
We’re shopping, meeting, talking with partners, doing paperwork, printing out datasheets, filling gas bottles, withdrawing cash, charging up and testing radios, sat phones and GPSs, and doing all the umpteen things that need to be done before an expedition can head out into the field. We have a few days of this still ahead of us until we can head into the mountains on Wednesday to set up base camp for you.
A couple of household points for the team:
There is a Globus supermarket a few minutes walk away from the Futuro assembly point hotel. It is open 24/7, takes cards and has lots of drinks and sweets and more. There will be plenty of food, tea, water and coffee at base, but no shops anywhere around. If you simply must have a can of lager in the evening or are addicted to Mars bars or similar, we recommend you stock up there before assembly (don’t be late tough!). Good luck with reading the labels 😉 Remember we are at base and away from shops for 12 nights.
I hope you have swatted up on the 2024 report, field guide and dossier. If you want to be ahead of the curve (the first two days of training will be tough, with lots of information thrown at you), then have a look at all the documents here, which I suggest you read at some stage or on your flight to come extra well prepared.
Welcome to the 2025 Tien Shan snow leopard expedition diary. I am Matthias Hammer, expedition leader for group 1 and the founder & executive director of Biosphere Expeditions. I am already in Bishkek, where it is hot and stifling (35 C yesterday). It will be different in the mountains – cooler and fresher.
The expedition scientist, Emil, and I have a week to prepare, go shopping, put things in place etc. before two more staff and expedition leaders – Jonny and Darran – arrive from the UK and Ireland respectively and we move out and set up base camp for you, before it all starts.
Matthias (left) and Emil
So this is just to let you know that things are proceeding as planned despite various crises around the world, and that we look forward to meeting you in due course.
At your end, please study your dossier as well as the 2024 report to make sure you come prepared. I hope you are getting excited and that your preparations are going well. I’ll be in touch again before we set up and once we’re back from setup.
The 2025 expedition is done. Over 10 expedition days and with the help of ten citizen and professional scientists from six countries (Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Spain, UK), we found and recorded 51 dens (17 anthill, 4 anthill/soil, 6 nest, 16 rock and 8 soil dens). We also collected 11 first scats at dens, which is a record that Dr. Andrea Friebe, the expedition scientist, called “sensational”. We also removed three camera traps and entered all the data into the database. This has once again been a very significant contribution to the Scandinavian Brown Bear Research Project’s database and studies and we are expecting scientific publications that use these data soon (as well as the usual annual expedition report).
Thank you so much to all our citizen scientists who have made this possible by contributing their time and funds. Without you, there would be no expedition. You have been an exceptionally effective and determined team and we take our hats off to you for the effort you have put in.
Team 2025
So, since 2019, this expedition has developed into an essential data collection part of the Scandinavian Brown Bear Research Project, because it collects – over a relatively short period each year – large amounts of den and scat data through the concentrated efforts of citizen scientists. For example, in 2019 the expedition visited 28 bear den sites and mapped 24, found 10 scats at 15 bear cluster sites, recovered a bear skeleton from a bog for further analysis, recovered a valuable transmitter, covered over 2,000 km of the study site and had two bear encounters, increasing the SBBRP’s bear den database by between a third and a half. After an unwanted Covid-break, the 2023 expedition visited 68 sites, including 38 winter dens and 35 scat collections, ten of which were ‘first scats of the season’ (especially valuable samples that can reveal what a bear has eaten before and during hibernation). The 2024 expedition surveyed 27 dens, and collected 56 scat samples including three samples of ‘first scats of the season’. The 2025 expedition surveyed 51 dens, and collected a record 11 first scats. The SBBRP expedition scientist has called the contributions of the expeditions over the years “invaluable” and “sensational”.
So I leave you with some impressions of the last few days and some citizen scientist feedback. Thank you so much again and safe travels onwards or home. We hope to meet you again on an expedition, somewhere, somewhen on this fragile planet of ours.
I really liked how we were able to go out independently in small groups and were trusted to conduct our fieldwork to a high standard. It was all amazing. Keira W., Australia
I really enjoyed the satisfaction of helping to gather data so scientists can makes sense of how climate breakdown is affecting flagship species. Also the age of participants – I’ve been on a number of projects with other organisations where everyone around me was below 25. Chai H., UK
I really enjoyed staying here and I am not sure whether anything can match the experience I had here. The work with our local scientist Andrea was so joyful and fantastic. I also learnt a lot about bears. I hope I can join the expedition again in another year. Sarah H., Germany
Over the past week, we’ve been checking the hell out of the dens within an hour’s drive of the base in all directions. We’ve studied and recorded soil, rock, anthill, nest and all manner of weird and wonderful dens, crawled into almost all of them (thank you Keira and Sarah for being the pre-eminent den crawlers) to measure and study the inside, found evidence of cubs and feeding and preying and playing.
Here’s a den gallery:
To get to the dens, we’ve negotiated broken ground, bogs, steep hills, gentle slopes, beautiful meadows, rock falls, woods and forests, plantations and clear-cuts, as well as lakes and waterways.
Highlights included coming across a bear crossing the road (“we were all too busy screaming to take pictures”), fox, moose, capercaillie and various other birdlife, crossing a lake on a paddle board to get to a den on a small island, and the team meeting at a local beauty spot for lunch.
Island den-checking
Tomorrow is our last survey day. It’ll be more dens and retrieving some camera traps. Our scientist Andrea will also present some preliminary results. I will share this all in the next diary entry, before we part, ready for a holiday after this research expedition. Thank you for den-checking your guts out team! You deserve a holiday 😉
After two days of training and recording den data as one group, we have been let loose and are now on our second day of collecting den data by ourselves, in three groups of two or three people.
Each morning Andrea assigns dens to us, hidden in the forest. We get their GPS position and some background information and then have to work out how to get there, first in the car, mainly on forest roads to advance as close to the den as we can. Then it’s on foot through enchanted, pathless forests, picking our way through wetlands, bolder fields, carpets of moss, over rocks, birds for company. Sunshine and light through the clouds change as we walk and clamber through quiet groves, past springs and fallen trees to our object of desire: a bear den. Sometimes we only have a few hundred metres to go, sometimes one or two kilometres. It’s slow going. You have to pick a path through the trees, watch your direction on the GPS. It slows you down. It’s not a race. You sink into the forest. Deceleration. Sometimes it’s only a few minutes to the den, sometimes an hour or more.
Once at the den, which wants to be found first too, lots of measurements need to be taken. How big is the den and its inside chamber (crawl inside for this)? What bedding did the bear use? What trees make up the surrounding forest? Are there any scratch marks around or scat (collect this). Are there signs of cubs, such as small scratch marks low down on trees, and more. This takes about another hour and is all meticulously recorded. Then back to the car and onto the next den. A group manages between a couple and half a dozen a day, depending how far apart they are in the forest and on the roads.
Measuring the inside of a den
Back to base in the afternoon for a de-brief session where each group tells the others what they found. Tips & tricks are exchanged, Andrea asks questions, wants to know more. Then data entry into the computer and a well-deserved hot dinner. Some fireplace conversations perhaps, for those who haven’t crashed already. Ready for the next day.
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