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We have found some hope in the gloom. The last reef we assessed, was – in the words of Simon, our expedition scientist – “what a reef should look like”. Great coral cover, quite a few fish, almost no bleaching and very little coral disease. So the expedition ended on a high, as well as some outstanding karaoke, especially from the crew, who had some impressive dance moves in store.
In between the weather tried to thwart us, but we are undeterred, dodging and weaving the squalls, laughing at the sheets of rain and delighting in the sunshine.
We checked lots of reefs like clockwork. And this is exactly what makes an expedition: a journey with a purpose. Our purpose was assessing reef health, revisiting sites and continuing to add to what is now an impressive 12-year database.
Thank you, expeditioners – none of this would exist without you. We hope we also brought some clarity to your own purpose and thinking during what was an all-round very successful expedition.
Group 2 is now also qualified – well done – and checking those reefs.
The stories are as mixed as has been the weather. There are some quite healthy reefs and some that are sick.
Fish are scarce, especially grouper, because there is immense fishing pressure due to (over)tourism and a very active grouper fishery that sells them off as food fish, mainly to Hong Kong as live fish for restaurant aquariums there.
Here we are back again with a smaller, but equally keen group 2.
The weather has turned and it’s more windy, greyer and rainy now. But underwater it’s wet anyway.
We’ve done our check-out dive and are well into our training sessions now. Lectures, pointy dives and fish test today. The proof will be in the pudding.
Group 1 has checked all the reefs on its schedule, well done!
All were repeat surveys to track reef health and development over the years, one of the great advantages of citizen-scientist-funded expeditions, which can fund projects sustainably and reliably for many years (since 2011 in the case of the Maldives), generating long-term datasets that result in many insights and scientific publications.
None of this would happen without the many, many citizen scientists over the years who come to fund and help with this research and conservation work. Thank you!
We’re in the groove now and checking those reefs like clockwork – well done team 1.
We moved to Alifu Dhaalu (South Ari) atoll and studied a couple of sites there, as per our schedule. They were outer sites and coral cover was unchanged from when we visited them last in 2023 (still few fish, as has been the case for more than a decade now – they are just being overfished). The good coral cover, however, is positive news, showing some resilience.
Team 1 is delivering and so is the weather – and the reefs.
After two days of intensive training, we’ve checked our first reef, well half of it, were it not for our very own two Daft Punks reeling in the survey line whilst people were still busy with the survey :))
But that’s exactly what the very first survey is for – after 48 hours of crash coursing – to get familiar with how it all comes together underwater. So no sweat and same again this morning, as per ze schedule, ja!
Expedition scientist Simon and I have arrived on our liveaboard base in the Maldives and are setting up as we speak.
The liveaboard harbour is – against expectations – still here and has not been filled in for housing. We have a quiet corner amongst other liveaboards although there is some hammering and shouting going on as I type this as last minute repairs are done.
The 2025 expedition is done. Over 10 expedition days and with the help of ten citizen and professional scientists from six countries (Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Spain, UK), we found and recorded 51 dens (17 anthill, 4 anthill/soil, 6 nest, 16 rock and 8 soil dens). We also collected 11 first scats at dens, which is a record that Dr. Andrea Friebe, the expedition scientist, called “sensational”. We also removed three camera traps and entered all the data into the database. This has once again been a very significant contribution to the Scandinavian Brown Bear Research Project’s database and studies and we are expecting scientific publications that use these data soon (as well as the usual annual expedition report).
Thank you so much to all our citizen scientists who have made this possible by contributing their time and funds. Without you, there would be no expedition. You have been an exceptionally effective and determined team and we take our hats off to you for the effort you have put in.
Team 2025
So, since 2019, this expedition has developed into an essential data collection part of the Scandinavian Brown Bear Research Project, because it collects – over a relatively short period each year – large amounts of den and scat data through the concentrated efforts of citizen scientists. For example, in 2019 the expedition visited 28 bear den sites and mapped 24, found 10 scats at 15 bear cluster sites, recovered a bear skeleton from a bog for further analysis, recovered a valuable transmitter, covered over 2,000 km of the study site and had two bear encounters, increasing the SBBRP’s bear den database by between a third and a half. After an unwanted Covid-break, the 2023 expedition visited 68 sites, including 38 winter dens and 35 scat collections, ten of which were ‘first scats of the season’ (especially valuable samples that can reveal what a bear has eaten before and during hibernation). The 2024 expedition surveyed 27 dens, and collected 56 scat samples including three samples of ‘first scats of the season’. The 2025 expedition surveyed 51 dens, and collected a record 11 first scats. The SBBRP expedition scientist has called the contributions of the expeditions over the years “invaluable” and “sensational”.
So I leave you with some impressions of the last few days and some citizen scientist feedback. Thank you so much again and safe travels onwards or home. We hope to meet you again on an expedition, somewhere, somewhen on this fragile planet of ours.
I really liked how we were able to go out independently in small groups and were trusted to conduct our fieldwork to a high standard. It was all amazing. Keira W., Australia
I really enjoyed the satisfaction of helping to gather data so scientists can makes sense of how climate breakdown is affecting flagship species. Also the age of participants – I’ve been on a number of projects with other organisations where everyone around me was below 25. Chai H., UK
I really enjoyed staying here and I am not sure whether anything can match the experience I had here. The work with our local scientist Andrea was so joyful and fantastic. I also learnt a lot about bears. I hope I can join the expedition again in another year. Sarah H., Germany
Over the past week, we’ve been checking the hell out of the dens within an hour’s drive of the base in all directions. We’ve studied and recorded soil, rock, anthill, nest and all manner of weird and wonderful dens, crawled into almost all of them (thank you Keira and Sarah for being the pre-eminent den crawlers) to measure and study the inside, found evidence of cubs and feeding and preying and playing.
Here’s a den gallery:
To get to the dens, we’ve negotiated broken ground, bogs, steep hills, gentle slopes, beautiful meadows, rock falls, woods and forests, plantations and clear-cuts, as well as lakes and waterways.
Highlights included coming across a bear crossing the road (“we were all too busy screaming to take pictures”), fox, moose, capercaillie and various other birdlife, crossing a lake on a paddle board to get to a den on a small island, and the team meeting at a local beauty spot for lunch.
Island den-checking
Tomorrow is our last survey day. It’ll be more dens and retrieving some camera traps. Our scientist Andrea will also present some preliminary results. I will share this all in the next diary entry, before we part, ready for a holiday after this research expedition. Thank you for den-checking your guts out team! You deserve a holiday 😉
After two days of training and recording den data as one group, we have been let loose and are now on our second day of collecting den data by ourselves, in three groups of two or three people.
Each morning Andrea assigns dens to us, hidden in the forest. We get their GPS position and some background information and then have to work out how to get there, first in the car, mainly on forest roads to advance as close to the den as we can. Then it’s on foot through enchanted, pathless forests, picking our way through wetlands, bolder fields, carpets of moss, over rocks, birds for company. Sunshine and light through the clouds change as we walk and clamber through quiet groves, past springs and fallen trees to our object of desire: a bear den. Sometimes we only have a few hundred metres to go, sometimes one or two kilometres. It’s slow going. You have to pick a path through the trees, watch your direction on the GPS. It slows you down. It’s not a race. You sink into the forest. Deceleration. Sometimes it’s only a few minutes to the den, sometimes an hour or more.
Once at the den, which wants to be found first too, lots of measurements need to be taken. How big is the den and its inside chamber (crawl inside for this)? What bedding did the bear use? What trees make up the surrounding forest? Are there any scratch marks around or scat (collect this). Are there signs of cubs, such as small scratch marks low down on trees, and more. This takes about another hour and is all meticulously recorded. Then back to the car and onto the next den. A group manages between a couple and half a dozen a day, depending how far apart they are in the forest and on the roads.
Measuring the inside of a den
Back to base in the afternoon for a de-brief session where each group tells the others what they found. Tips & tricks are exchanged, Andrea asks questions, wants to know more. Then data entry into the computer and a well-deserved hot dinner. Some fireplace conversations perhaps, for those who haven’t crashed already. Ready for the next day.
Biosphere Expeditions: blogs from the frontline of wildlife conservation and the fight for a more sustainable planet 