โ€˜Youโ€™re right on the frontlines of conservation – and you see life differently.โ€™

As biologists, Gary and Sandra Hogben have always been fascinated by the natural world. But when seeking a way to get stuck into some fieldwork, they began going on expeditions together. From tiptoeing past sleeping elephants to learning how to use the village water pump, itโ€™s been an even richer journey than theyโ€™d imagined.

Sandra (left) and Gary Hogben (right) on their elephant expedition to Thailand in 2023.

Gary and Sandra never imagined theyโ€™d end up stranded on a dirt road in Malawi, miles from anywhere, bus broken down, no immediate way of moving. But thatโ€™s exactly where they found themselves. Rather than the struggle, however, they remember the laughter and camaraderie that came from taking responsibility for their own fate. โ€˜Youโ€™re really pushing yourself,โ€™ Sandra says. โ€˜You learn your limits.โ€™

Their story starts back in 2013, when the couple undertook their first expedition to Namibia. It proved a turning point in how they saw themselvesโ€”and their holidays. Both are biologists by training, but as Sandra notes, โ€˜Itโ€™s microbiology, not macro, so we wanted a broader perspective. Something that let us get back to what we used to do: proper fieldwork.โ€™ A classic game drive wasnโ€™t enough; they wanted hands-on involvement, real interaction with wildlife, and a sense they were contributing to something bigger.

So they signed up for a Biosphere Expeditions project in Namibia, discovering that expedition life is intense in ways they never anticipated. โ€˜I felt anxious about what Iโ€™d signed up for,โ€™ Gary admits, recalling the dossierโ€™s instructions on braving remote desert roads and uncertain conditions. But from the start, that same uncertainty became an addictive challenge. โ€˜I love to travel, but because of the climate crisis, I felt guilty,โ€™ he says. โ€˜This wasnโ€™t just a holiday though โ€” it had a purpose, a way to give something back.โ€™

Over time, they ventured further: Malawi, Arabia, Costa Rica, Thailand โ€” each place tested them physically and emotionally. Theyโ€™ve dodged tsetse flies, tiptoed past elephants at night, and faced torrential storms checking on hatcheries every fifteen minutes. Yet for all the trials & tribulations, both speak with a sense of wonder. โ€˜You come back feeling that youโ€™ve overcome a challenge,โ€™ Sandra says. โ€˜And very glad to have done so.โ€™

Gary & Sandra (from right) and their 2018 Costa Rica sea turtle expedition team.
Sandra digging an incubation nest for leatherback turtle hatchlings
Gary constructing a protective basked for leatherback turtle hatchlings
Gary & Sandra on their 2018 Costa Rica experience

Meeting local communities helped them see their own routines in a new light. In Malawi, they learned to pump water from a village source, twenty liters at a time, or no shower. Back home, they realised their perspective had changed. โ€˜You see it a bit differently,โ€™ Sandra reflects. โ€˜It shows you whatโ€™s possible.โ€™ Gary now chairs a clean-water advisory group, inspired by the stark realities he encountered. โ€˜Youโ€™re right on the frontlines of conservation,โ€™ he explains, โ€˜seeing the difference youโ€™re making.โ€™

Gary on his 2019 Malawi experience

Perhaps the biggest surprise has been the friendships theyโ€™ve forged. โ€˜Weโ€™ve stayed in touch with people from our first expedition,โ€™ Sandra says. โ€˜Helen from Australia visited us in the UK, and Georg from Germany โ€” like-minded folks who keep coming back for more.โ€™

โ€˜If someone asks whether they should do it, I always say: โ€˜Go for it. You wonโ€™t regret it,โ€™โ€™ Gary says. โ€˜I used to think being stuck between hippos and elephants was something youโ€™d watch on TV. Now itโ€™s part of our reality.โ€™ And for both Gary and Sandra, that reality is far more compelling โ€” and life-changing โ€” than any other kind of holiday could ever be.

โ€˜You could just feel that no-one wanted to leaveโ€ฆโ€™

Tired of feeling passive, and yearning to get closer to nature, Martyn Roberts swapped safari holidays for expeditions – and learned as much about himself as he did about wildlife.

Martyn Roberts on the Azores whale & dolphin expedition in 2024
Martyn Roberts on the Azores whale & dolphin expedition in 2024

Martyn Roberts never forgot his first safari in South Africa – it left him wanting more. He loved the thrill of being close to wildlife โ€” but as he put it, โ€˜I wanted to get hands-on. I wanted to make a difference, to do something more demanding that allowed me to express these beliefs, ideas and interests.โ€™ Those hopes lingered until 2002, when a chance encounter led him to Biosphere Expeditions and a life-changing trip to Namibia.

At the time, Martyn had just come out of his first marriage and was ready for something new, something bold. His earlier safari was too short, too passive. So when he discovered Biosphere Expeditions and heard about an upcoming two-week project in Namibia, he took a leap of faith. โ€˜I wouldnโ€™t call it the hard sell,โ€™ Martyn says as he recalls his first conversation with Matthias, the expedition leader, โ€˜but he insisted that I join. It was an encounter with the unknown.โ€™

For Martyn โ€” who had always travelled with friends, family or a partner โ€” heading off by himself to find the meeting point in Windhoek felt like a huge step. โ€˜Yes, it was the first time Iโ€™d travelled on my own,โ€ he remembered. โ€˜I wasnโ€™t overly worried, but I was apprehensive. What would it involve? It was a leap into the unknown.โ€™

What he found in Namibia wasnโ€™t at all what heโ€™d expected. โ€˜The country itself โ€ฆ just how wild and desolate it was,โ€™ he marvels. โ€˜So much bigger than I expected. The cheetah was the species we worked with – I was a bit surprised how well it all ran!โ€™ He still laughs about his first meeting with another big beast: Matthias, in a Windhoek cafรฉ, when Martyn realised his expedition leader was nothing like the โ€˜old man with a big beardโ€™ heโ€™d imagined.

Gruelling hours, hard physical work and pushing comfort zones: Martyn discovered much more than animals alone. He and his team had to maintain vehicles, drive out into remote areas, check camera traps, and spend hours in hides. โ€˜Everyone was silent when Matthias asked who wanted to drive,โ€™ Martyn says. โ€˜I stuck my hand up and said, โ€˜Iโ€™ll give it a go,โ€™ driving people Iโ€™d never met, hours out of town, in a foreign country, at times when youโ€™re tired can be challenging. But you do it.โ€™

Martin driving in Namibia in 2002
Martyn driving in Namibia in 2002

That first two-week expedition changed the course of Martynโ€™s life. He kept returning: Altai, Sumatra, Brazil, drawn back again and again. โ€˜As each expedition happened, you could sense a change,โ€™ he explains. โ€˜I thought, โ€˜I like this. This is good. Weโ€™re giving a lot and getting a lot.โ€™ And you could feel no one wanted to leave.โ€™ Simply deciding to go – and accepting responsibility for getting himself to the rendezvous point, no matter how remote – was a challenge in its own right. But he relished it. โ€˜Itโ€™s the first test to see if youโ€™re independent and can take responsibility.โ€™

Of all the expedition he’s been on, Sumatra in 2015 stands out as a defining moment. Heat, humidity, dense jungles, the exhaustion of wading through waterlogged terrain – it tested him like nothing else. โ€˜We had base camps with WWF, rats in the night, someone set up a camera so we got rat TV every morning,โ€™ he chuckles. โ€˜But the expedition work was seriously challenging. I approached the expedition leader talking about quitting – I was in my late 50s and finding it tough. A couple of days I didnโ€™t go out because it was too hard, and I felt I was holding the group back. But I got back in the end!โ€™ Itโ€™s a point of pride that he persevered. โ€˜Even with Wellington boots, boggy ground, up and down, thigh-deep in water โ€ฆ it was unpleasant. But I managed,โ€™ he says. โ€˜Itโ€™s addictive. Canโ€™t get there from here? You can, you can, because youโ€™re part of a team.โ€™

Tough expedition work in Sumatra
Tough expedition work in Sumatra
Martyn (foreground left) asking local people about tigers in Sumatra 2025
Martyn (foreground left) asking local people about tigers in Sumatra 2015

Returning home after each of these experiences has been its own kind of challenge. โ€˜Itโ€™s a bit like the post-holiday blues,โ€™ Martyn admits. Heโ€™d come back buzzing with stories: Muddy boots, extraordinary wildlife encountersโ€”but maintaining his passion at home wasnโ€™t easy. Still, that energy proved infectious for friends who saw just how transformative the expeditions had been for him.

In time, Martyn also realised that his once โ€˜rose-tinted viewโ€™ of wildlife charities had grown more nuanced. ‘Before expeditions, I supported charities like WWF. You think everything runs smoothly. But then when you do it yourself, helping professionals, you realise how difficult it is, how many challenges you face โ€” itโ€™s not as easy as you might think,โ€™ he muses. The fieldwork – hauling camera traps, trekking through punishing environments, collecting data – deepened his respect for conservationists. โ€˜I do it two weeks a year, and itโ€™s made me realise money isnโ€™t everything. Commitment, courage, consistency: thatโ€™s critical,โ€™ he says.

Martynโ€™s convictions havenโ€™t dimmed; theyโ€™ve evolved. His adventures have taken him across continents, from desert scrubs to humid jungles, always in search of something more meaningful than a fleeting holiday. Each expedition tested him in a new way. Each time, he rose to the challenge. Now, he canโ€™t imagine who heโ€™d be without those experiences – or the confidence theyโ€™ve given him. โ€˜For some people, this might be a one-off. But I realised I relish it,โ€™ he says, bright-eyed with the memory. โ€˜Itโ€™s rare in life. You give a lot, but you get a lot back, and that changes you.โ€™

Maldives: Wrap-up 2024

Update from our Maldives coral reef and whale shark expedition

As a wrap-up for the 2024 expedition, we thought you would like to know what our scientist Dr. Jean-Luc Solandt said to Reef Check:

During the 2024 expedition we had to operate near to Guraidhoo (four sites) for most of the week due to the high winds. We also surveyed Bandos Island in N Maleโ€™ atoll.

Surprisingly reasonably healthy reefs just near to Guraidhoo island (Guraidhoo backreef) where we saw considerable damage in 2022 after the construction of the infilled back reef (see this report). In some (particularly back reef) reef areas there appears to have been dominance of lifeforms other than Acropora โ€“ moving towards non-Acropora genera such as Porites rus and Porites cylindrica that are also dominant at Baybeโ€™s.

Porites species dominance

This was evident at Guraidhoo back reef. Guraidhoo fore reef, however, has not recovered its pre-development coral reef condition. Perhaps because the conditions are not suitable for both sediment and wave-action tolerant coral lifeforms such as Porites rus.

These patterns will be discussed in the 2024 report.

Dr. Jean-Luc Solandt on the expedition 2024

Citizen scientists feedback:


Picture selection 2024

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Maldives: Done

Update from our Maldives coral reef and whale shark expedition

The 2024 expedition is done. Instead of waxing lyrical again, why not let some of those involved speak:

Thank you to all of you involved in the expedition. Thank you for making it possible through your input of time and money. Thank you for helping to build a unique dataset, telling a significant story of hope in what can sometimes be a bleak world of nature conservation, especially for coral reefs. We will have to see what comes of it.

So finally, honour where honour is due, here they are, our heroes of the reef:

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